Janso Atal in Kita-Senju is run by Toyaman, the company behind other izakaya around the city, including Oillia and Tachiataru. It’s on the second floor of a renovated former mahjong parlour and the inside is a modern, yet cosy environment with an open kitchen and a bar counter in the centre of the room. As a nod to the building’s past, there’s a custom glass-topped dining table with a full mahjong board underneath. There’s even a wall decked with neon signs in the shape of mahjong pieces that spell out ‘Atal’.
We recommend sitting at the counter, so you can watch the chefs cook your meal right in front of you. The fried rice noodles (¥750) are a highlight, and come in flavours like gomoku ankake (savoury sauce with veggies), black vinegar egg and grilled pork. But we recommend the garlic chive rice noodles, which come with a genovese-style sauce, topped with dried seaweed, walnuts and a drizzle of the restaurant’s special garlic soy sauce. Pair it with one of the original cocktails like Vice Mint Sour (¥600), Blue Lemon Sour (¥630) or Cola Chuhi (¥650). The drinks all come in tall glasses with retro illustrations.
Just looking for a snack? The beef shumai steamed dumplings with uni (sea urchin roe; ¥680) are a luxurious addition to the night, as well as the grilled spiced lamb (¥800) slices, which are simply seasoned with salt, pepper and cumin, which you can dip into yogurt or salsa sauce according to your liking.
The izakaya is hard to spot, since it doesn’t have a sign outside to indicate that it’s in the building, so just look for the old Mahjong Tomi sign and head up to the second floor.