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Sat right outside Uguisudani Station on the Yamanote line and open from 7am daily, Shinanoji is a haven for revellers looking to grab a drink at dawn. Part bar, part budget eatery, it offers a variety of cheap meals, including shiratakini (a type of noodle salad), doteyaki (beef flavoured with miso and mirin) and aji-furai (deep-fried horse mackerel). Most of the dishes on the menu cost less than ¥500, and the place is so retro that the 'napolitan' pasta is served with a bowl of miso soup on the side. Some of the regular clientele only take a few minutes to polish off their teishoku sets, but if you’re travelling in a pack and want to take your time, there’s a horigodatsu (sunken floor) seating area that’s perfect for small groups.
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