Yakiyama

Wild game has yet to make much headway in Japan, but Yakiyama is looking to change all that with its Nakameguro opening. Their main restaurant is located in Oita prefecture on the island of Kyushu, where the concept is a simple one – to hunt wild animals that are a nuisance to crops and local farmers, and serve them grilled over hot coals. The surrounds are far more urban here, but the grilling part remains the same. The meat on the menu varies depending on the season and can include deer, wild boar, horse, rabbit, duck, ostrich and pheasant. However, it’s the year-round meat of crow that’s caused a spot of controversy. And true to culinary cliché, crow tastes a lot like chicken. Yakiyama also offers a chef’s choice of seasonal cuts that you can grill yourself at the table. Be careful not to overcook the meat, which often has little fat content and can turn chewy and tough. A line-up of condiments including yuzu, mountain herbs, garlic, mustard and salt will help add some flavour. And a side of mashed potato with cheese, blowtorched for theatrical effect at your table, completes the set nicely.