Washoku, as Japanese food is known in its homeland, is globally more popular than ever. Conveyor-belt sushi restaurants are a staple of the world’s cities, while the wider public is discovering the nutritional benefits of many traditional Japanese dishes. The year 2020 saw washoku designated as a Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage, and this recognition is now celebrated (belatedly due to the Covid-19 pandemic) by this fascinating large-scale exhibition.
Across multiple zones featuring interactive installations, replica dishes and much more, the Washoku showcase explores how both nature and culture have over centuries shaped a cuisine that for many visitors is one of Japan’s key attractions.
Highlights include a look at how fermentation, now a buzzword with foodies, was developed as a preservation technique that could also stave off boredom with a limited range of ingredients. The scientific similarity between fermentation and simple rotting away is also explained. Life-sized replicas of Edo period (1603-1868) food stalls, meanwhile, reveal the street food origins of sushi and tempura.
Note: The exhibition is closed on Mondays (expect Dec 25, Jan 8, Feb 12 and Feb 19), Dec 28-Jan 1, Jan 9, and Feb 13.
Text by Darren Gore