Cơm tấm (broken rice) emerged from resourcefulness in early 20th-century Saigon when fractured grains from processing were relegated to animal feed.
Saigon's labourers discovered these broken grains absorbed flavours better and had a unique, satisfying texture. By the mid-20th century, these fractured grains had become an iconic dish enjoyed across all social classes; cơm tấm, a complete meal where broken rice serves as the foundation for all sorts of goodies, from grilled meats to pickled vegetables, fried eggs and more.
Cơm Tấm Ba Ghiền is widely considered as one of Saigon's finest purveyors of the good stuff.
The vibe: Accessible via a narrow alley adjacent to a prominent Catholic church (the restaurant arguably has an even larger following), Cơm Tấm Ba Ghiền occupies a traditional shophouse in the laid-back Phú Nhuận District.
Large menu posters with photos and prices cover the walls in lieu of art or decor, and there’s no air conditioning here - just fans pushing around the aroma of continuously grilling pork. The clientele remains predominantly local, comprising office workers and families, although food pilgrims have increased since Michelin's nod in 2023.
The food: Owner Trương Vĩnh Thụy, who inherited the recipe from his mother, oversees production of over 3,000 plates of cơm tấm daily.
The highlight: mammoth pork chops that sit next to the grill in deep plastic buckets full of a sweet, viscous secret marinade. They're grilled with a massive fan propeller blowing over them, an ingenious Vietnamese technique that encourages simultaneous grilling and smoking.
There is a choice of six plates, but for the small difference in price, it's definitely worth going all in – or, in Vietnamese, thập cẩm (fully loaded). That plate holds various shades of pork (the chop, shredded skin, meat loaf), eggs, pickles, sauces and more. It's all drizzled with spring onion oil.
The drinks: Complimentary trà đá (iced tea), avocado smoothies, and their specialty rau má (pennywort juice). Traditional chanh muối (salted lime drink) provides refreshing electrolyte replacement on a hot day.
Time Out tip: Request extra spring onion oil (mỡ hành), to anoint everything with a sweet, satisfying perfume.