The Electric Diner, the latest restaurant on this site from Soho House, has outclassed its previous incarnations with style and ease. With its unfinished brick and concrete walls, low lighting, french grey-painted plank ceiling, red leather banquettes and lively open kitchen down one side, evoking a sort of chic US railway car diner, the spot easily delivers on atmosphere. The hip vibe extends to the menu, which features artery-unfriendly American classics: cheeseburgers (which arrives in a pretentious presentation on a small plate with a sharp knife sticking out of it like a sinister birthday candle), hot dogs, milkshakes (pleasantly creamy, sensibly sized). But each classic dish is well-thought-out and composed of good ingredients: French fries are thin and crispy, but made of flavourful potatoes, even a simple bibb lettuce and avocado salad was enlivened with finely chopped chives and tarragon, so it actually tasted of something. Wash these down with a vast range of cocktails or wine. The Diner gets extra points for having a children’s menu with healthy, tasty food: salmon and broccoli was a great relief to a refined diner of modest age who tires easily of the frozen fish fingers foisted upon her elsewhere. Desserts are a must-have: a slice of classic lemon meringue pie was as big as Texas, and as bold. The speakers by every red leather booth seem an excessive distribution of club music, adding to an already noisy room, filled with sounds of shouted orders, gossiping young hipsters, and sizzling grills.