Over the footbridge from the Canary Wharf hub, Goodman is nonetheless well situated, with plenty of upholstered seating in window booths from which to view the dock, as well as a few outdoor tables at the bar end of the restaurant.
Our waiter was warm, informative and reassuringly averse to upselling – despite being immensely proud of Goodman’s supremely high-quality meat. He duly paraded ‘the meat tray’ for our admiration (a plate of four chunky steaks, beautifully marbled and offered both on and off the bone), yet gave no sign of disappointment when we opted for the lunch deal (three courses for £19) rather than one of the luxury cuts: £45 for a 400g fillet – much more should you essay the blackboard detailing today’s finest. The flesh lived up to the schtick: unctuously fatty, deep, juicy 9oz Black Label sirloin steak, served with thick, foamy béarnaise on the side and functional, if slightly too dense, chips, all accompanied by a 2009 Château Bellevue Bordeaux that was wonderfully tannic and of exemplary length. And one final good taste in the mouth: we were alerted to the fact the tip was already included in the price. Good, man.