There is a lot to like about the high-class Locanda Cipriani, which was one of Hemingway's haunts. The setting, just off Torcello's pretty square, is idyllic; tables are spread over a large vine-shaded terrace during the summer. And although there is nothing remotely adventurous about the cuisine, it's good in an old-fashioned way. Specialities such as risotto alla torcellana (with seasonal vegetables) are done to perfection, and the desserts are tasty treats for rich kids. Dinner is served (7-9pm) on Friday and Saturday, by prior arrangement only.