West Bali: 7 under-the-radar spots to visit

There’s really no bad time to be in Bali, but if you want to avoid the rains, aim for May to September. Even during the wet season, rains are short and sharp, and you’ll be blessed with pleasant sunny days and benefit from fewer visitors and lower prices. 

For epic surfing without the crowds

West Bali’s south-facing coastline has endless kilometres of deserted beach breaks plus two more famous spots that tend to draw weekend crowds when surf is blown out (or the crowds get too intense) farther east. Balian – one of the first communities you hit coming from the east – is a popular river-mouth break. Medewi (about 40 minutes farther west) is famous for its left-hand point-break…but even experienced surfers fear the razor-sharp rocks. Nearby Yeh Sumbul has become popular with travelling surfers thanks to more forgiving sandbanks and an easily rideable wave. Craving even more solitude? Head to Pekutatan, where Yeh Leh Beach – stretching over 12 kilometres – is almost completely unsurfed!

For snorkelling in paradise

Tiny Menjangan Island (less than three kilometres long) is where you'll find Bali’s best diving and snorkelling. Avoid the crowds that you’ll find at more famous Nusa Penida and head up to the wilds of Bali’s northwestern tip to have colourful reefs, coral gardens and drop-offs all to yourself. Head to Labuhan Lalang pier to buy permits, hire equipment and a guide, and charter a boat (about 15 minutes to Menjangan). If you’d rather snorkel directly from the beach, head to Pemuteran town, where you’ll find spectacular reefs (man-made and natural) within a few metres of the shoreline.

For the world's most colourful fishing fleet

Perancak inlet (just south of Negara, West Bali’s sleepy capital) is home to what might be the world’s most vibrantly colourful fishing fleet. The 100 or more rainbow-hued fishing boats here are one of Bali’s most fascinating cultural sights, and yet you’re unlikely to see a single other visitor here. Ask at Warung Lesehan Taman Pesisir (the eatery on the waterside) for a boatman who can give you a closer look at the boats. You’ll notice that they’re always moored in pairs: they’re referred to as husband and wife, and when one is decommissioned, the other is known as a ‘widow’.

For walking with (pink!) buffalo

Only in West Bali can you still see Balinese buffalo ploughing paddy fields. In the village of Pekutatan, farmer Pak Sudana has established a unique conservation initiative – an alternative to selling his precious pink buffalo for farming or, worse, for sacrifices or the brutal sport of makepung (West Balinese buffalo chariot racing). During a Buffalo Walk with Sudana, you’ll learn how to herd these charismatic creatures along the beach (they are partly voice-controlled!). With his son, Komang, translating, Sudana will also explain the intricacies of rice farming in this timeless corner of the island. 

For a Balinese safari

It might be hard to believe, but West Bali’s interior is still blanketed with uninhabited (and largely unexplored) jungle. It’s not easy to access, however, and the best way to experience the incredible flora and fauna in this region is to stay at The Menjangan eco-resort. The forest here is home to monkeys (including rare black langurs), giant squirrels the size of cats, and large herds of completely wild sambar deer – often browsing on the beach, right in front of your suite. A Menjangan birdwatching tour is a rare chance to see wild Bali starlings, one of the world’s most endangered birds.

For isolated temple visits

Rambut Siwi is one of Bali’s renowned ‘Sea Temples’ and yet, unlike the vast sunset crowds you’ll find at Uluwatu and Tanah Lot, you’re likely to enjoy sunset overlooking the great stretch of wild coastline in complete solitude. There is usually a caretaker around who will (for a small tip) explain the complexities of Balinese temple architecture. If you cross to the north coast, be sure to visit Goa Tirta Sunia Temple (near Pemuteran), where you might even have the unique experience of watching monkeys cooling themselves with a dip in the sea on a hot afternoon.

For a sacred tunnel tree

The highland road from Pekutatan, which runs directly to the north coast, is one of the most picturesque in all of Indonesia. It’s especially breathtaking in the hour around dawn when the mist rises out of the jungle valleys. Bunut Bolong, the ancient tree that has grown right over the road, leaving a tunnel big enough for cars – and even trucks – to drive through, is the route’s most important cultural site. Many local drivers stop here to pay homage to the spirits that are said to inhabit the giant fig. There’s a warung (a local-style eatery) here with a platform overlooking the almost impenetrable rainforest that stretches westward for more than 40 kilometres. It’s a breathtaking spot, but it’s the drive onwards from here, over the highland ridges to the north coast, that makes this one of Bali’s most memorable experiences.