The great battle of hotel restaurants in Barcelona is to attract local diners. And the great battle of local diners is to not spend a fortune yet still try cuisine with character that also stays away from clichés of hotel kitchens and passing fads (like Caesar salads or avocado tartare).
Bar Veraz in The Barcelona Edition (a five-star hotel brought to you by one of the men behind Studio 54, Ian Schrager) has got all the ingredients to more than satisfy diners. Heading up the kitchen is Argentinian chef Sebastian Mazzola, and in the dining room is Sussie Villarica, who's Danish with Philippine roots. They've both previously participated in the openings of 41º and Pakta. According to Mazzola, in a hotel with four eateries, Veraz is affordable and honest, and that's reflected in the finished product.
Villarico adds that it's not a place that serves up fancy creations but rather dishes that are what people like to eat every day. Sure, it's in a five-star luxury hotel, but you can still have a meal for around €35. You'll find Catalan cuisine prepared more with a focus on ingredients and seasonality than on sticking to the letter of a recipe. For example, Mazzola's 'fricandó' is thin slices of stewed veal stuffed with Jerusalem artichoke, with a creamy sauce of 'rossinyols' (chanterelle mushrooms) and a picada that's much more than just your typical garlic and parsley.
Another memorable dish is one that may seem basic, but it's prepared with the accuracy of sniper: sweet potato with feta cheese. You get the sweetness of autumn with the fresh acidity of the Mediterranean, combined with a savoury sauce of caramelised vinegar and hazelnuts. Wow.
Mazzola has also set out to revolutionise the vermouth hour a bit – his mussels with bacon wake up your mouth and throat – and at any time of the day you'll find excellent Roman-style pizzas (a crispy and light crust that's fermented for three days) and a pasta of the day, like an incredible meeting of the traditional Catalan galet shell pasta and the traditional Sardinian culurgione stuffed pasta – a burst of freshness, basil and more-ish sauce.
On the terrace of the hotel you can order South American and Asian cuisine, and on the basement level there's a tasting menu. At Bar Veraz, what you'll get is always fresh and always available, for breakfast, lunch and dinner, every day of the year.
