The heart of Detour's heritage digs has transformed to a contemporary space of gleaming copper, industrial steel girders, blond wood and exposed brick. The timber pass is central to the whole shebang, where owner chef Damon Amos tends to every share-plate offering. You'd be nuts to miss his emu tartare. Amos's burnt honey panna cotta succeeds showcases honey, mead, pollen and a dehydrated bee nestled in a floral garnish (yes, you can eat it). Dishes are matched to wine from a list of beauty and brevity, offering Aussie-only reds, whites, ambers and rosés.
