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Every city should be so lucky as to have a bistro like Gerard's. Onions are charred, eggplant is blackened over flames and jars of pumpkin are patiently left to ferment inside Gerard's busy open kitchen. All are elements for Ben Williamson's menu, a beguiling mash-up of Middle Eastern and modern Australian cuisines. We recommend Williamson's funky Époisses and fermented mushroom dust mousse covering smoky eggplant purée, petals of baby onion filled with housemade pig's blood morcilla with sweetly smoky onion juice consommé. It's intensely aromatic and a dish of pure joy. A visit to Gerard's brings together inventive and beautifully executed food with a strong list of international wines to complement.