The world’s busiest tram

Every three minutes, maybe two, a sleek yellow Combino Supra tram glides up to one of its 19 stops on the 4/6 route and skates off again, effortlessly whisking upwards of 300,000 passengers a day along Budapest’s main boulevard, the Nagykörút. Introduced 20 years ago, as proclaimed on carriages recently rebranded to celebrate the occasion, these 55-metre-long, low-floor, air-conditioned vehicles are the lifeblood of Hungary’s capital.

While Budapest’s first horse-drawn trams were first introduced exactly 160 years ago this week, on July 30, 1866, they were soon replaced by electric ones, produced by Siemens in Germany, in 1877. In 2006, Siemens began delivery of 40 extra-long Combino models, convenient for wheelchair users and pram pushers, 39 of which are still in operation.

Twenty years on, further numbers now displayed on the carriages attest to their longevity. Since 2006, two billion passengers have been let on and off these comfortable beasts of urban burden thanks to the doors opening 34 billion times. Nowhere does it mention, however, how many times inspectors bearing maroon-and-blue armbands have caught fare dodgers…

From the Buda transport hub of Széll Kálmán tér, past the great landmarks of the Nagykörút and back into Buda, the 4/6 route is the world’s busiest. Dividing towards the end of their journey to reach either Újbuda-központ or Móricz Zsigmond körtér, the 4 and 6 also differ in their regular timetable, the 6 running all night to allow bar crawlers to carouse along the körút – or even aboard A38 Ship near Petőfi Bridge – and be safely delivered home with nary a taxi fare to pay.

By day and night, the négyes-hatos (as Hungarians refer to the 4/6) carves an arc through the up-and-coming Margit Quarter, crosses Margaret Bridge, stopping halfway along to allow pleasure seekers access Margaret Island, then makes a beeline for Nyugati station. Taking in Eiffel’s recently renovated masterpiece of iron and glass, the tram next calls at Oktogon, where it crosses Andrássy út, allowing passengers to change for the yellow M1, continental Europe’s oldest metro line, for Heroes’ Square or downtown Deák tér.

Staying on the Nagykörút, the 4/6 then kicks off its heels as the boulevard gets lively from Király utca onwards, a string of late-opening bars, one even called the Négyes-hatos, beckon, all with pavement terraces overlooking the constant yellow blur of tram traffic.

A couple of blocks down from the Wesselényi utca stop is the nightlife quarter itself, though many Hungarians prefer the more affordable alternative here on the körút. Passing the New York Café, said to be the world’s most beautiful coffeehouse, the 4/6 stops at another major crossing point, Blaha Lujza tér, location for Time Out Market Budapest. Here the red M2 metro line runs up to Budapest’s other main station, Keleti, and down to the Danube in the other direction.

The next stop after Blaha is another up-and-coming scene around Rákóczi tér, anchored by a great local market and surrounded by trendy cafés. The 4/6 dutifully continues through workaday Districts 8 and 9, passing the retail hub of Corvin beside the major artery of Üllői út, the main road leading to Budapest airport.

Powering over Petőfi Bridge, the tram drops off and picks up at the Buda bridgehead, an easy stroll down to the A38 Boat, Budapest’s award-winning live venue. Just beyond, the 4 comes to a gentle stop beside the Allee mall at Újbuda-központ, while the 6 forks off towards Móricz-Zsigmond körtér, connecting with the arty quarter of Bartók Béla út alongside.

Within a matter of minutes, having just set down, each service will be starting up again to follow the same route in reverse, in its quest to keep Budapest moving day and night.