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[title]The fact that it’s a Natural Wonder of the World should already be enough reason to visit. The fact that it’s one of the few glaciers in the world that’s practically effortless to access is another. However, there’s one reason that may not be a happy one, but it’s real: the Perito Moreno Glacier is retreating and we will likely never see it again as it is today.
“The space it’s losing doesn’t come back. The glacier is shrinking. Those of us who come here every day to work can see it,” explains Luis Sundblad, who has been a guide in Los Glaciares National Park for over 30 years.
For many years, the mass of ice that appears on postcards of Argentina was one of the few glaciers that remained in balance, recovering any surface it lost. But in recent years, it has become clear that this is no longer the case.
We don’t want to alarm you — we simply want to encourage you to finally cross this experience off your list, which is why we’re recommending what else you can’t miss during your visit. We also want to raise awareness about the impact of global warming on some of the most beautiful landscapes in the world.
How to get to El Calafate? From Buenos Aires, you can take a flight that lasts around 3 hours and 20 minutes. For the summer season, Flybondi increased the frequency of this route by 300%, going from 4 to 16 weekly flights. Many travelers take the opportunity to connect El Calafate with Ushuaia, which this summer will have between 2 and 6 flights.
Perito Moreno Glacier Walkways
If you’re visiting El Calafate, you need to dedicate at least part of your day to walking the glacier’s boardwalks. Six circuits allow you to see the ice mass from different perspectives. The Lower Trail and the Central Trail offer the best views. Plan to spend at least half a day here, taking in the scenery, sipping mate, and capturing the best snapshots. If you’re lucky, you might spot condors soaring above. Unfortunately, large ice ruptures are no longer seen — the last one occurred in 2019.
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Many companies offer the excursion, such as Patagonia Dreams, which picks you up directly from your hotel, although you can also go on your own. Since November, a not-to-miss experience has returned: visiting the Perito Moreno Glacier under the full moon.
Tip: Tickets to Los Glaciares National Park can be purchased at this link.
Where: From El Calafate, take Provincial Route 11 to the glacier — about 80 km.
Minitrekking on the Perito Moreno Glacier
It’s a different way to get to know this place. Walking on the ice, observing blue lagoons, the irregular surface with seracs (large ice blocks), streams, and crevasses is truly special. It’s of medium difficulty, as you walk about two hours on the ice with crampons. It’s not very physically demanding, but it can take a while to get used to the movement. Guides accompany the group at all times and help those with a bit of vertigo.
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A recommendation: wear comfortable clothes, preferably waterproof. Don’t wear wide-leg pants (they may get caught in the crampons), and wear gloves — if you don’t have any, the guides can provide them. The excursion lasts almost the entire day because it includes a boat ride to the starting point and the experience itself.
Tip: Hielo y Aventura is the only company offering this experience on Perito Moreno. You can check prices and book at this link.
Where: The boat departs from Puerto Bajo de las Sombras and lasts around 20 minutes.
Where to eat at the Perito Moreno Glacier
A great way to complement your visit to the walkways is by stopping for lunch at the Restó del Glaciar, which has one of the best views of the area. It’s ideal for enjoying a quiet moment with regional flavors and homemade dishes. Lentil stew, pumpkin soup, and lamb casserole are perfect options to warm up while you rest.
For those who want the full experience, you can order a glass of whisky with glacier ice — they cut it and serve it right at your table. It’s open every day and also offers take-away if you prefer to enjoy a coffee at the foot of the glacier.
Tip: Reservations can be made at this link.
Where: At the end of the Coastal Trail.
Where to stay in El Calafate
Esplendor by Wyndham El Calafate
If you’re visiting this destination, one key factor is staying somewhere comfortable and well-located. Esplendor by Wyndham El Calafate is one of the best options. First, because it’s only a few blocks from the town center. Second, because most of its rooms have breathtaking views of Lake Argentino. The common areas also feature large windows and a unique décor that highlights local art.
The hotel also offers a restaurant with a menu inspired by regional flavors and international options in an elegant setting, as well as a bar ideal for cocktails, Patagonian wines, and aperitifs in a relaxed atmosphere with unbeatable views. It also features a spa with a heated indoor pool, dry sauna, massages, and wellness treatments.
Tip: Check rates for your stay at this link.
Where: Av. Juan Domingo Perón 1143, El Calafate.
Estancia Cristina
Visiting this place means literally traveling to the heart of Patagonia. To get there, you must book a day excursion or stay overnight in their rooms. The only way to access it is by boat, with a navigation of about three hours. One of the main highlights of the journey — and a recurring one throughout the day — is getting the best possible view of the Upsala Glacier, the largest in Lake Argentino. Through the boat’s windows, you’ll likely see icebergs, snow-covered mountains, and an endless mirror of water.
Once at the estancia, the day continues with a 40-minute 4x4 ride to the glacier viewpoint. After a 15-minute walk, the panoramic views of untamed Patagonia are spectacular. You can see not only the glacier but also the Southern Patagonian Ice Field that feeds it. We recommend being prepared for any weather: you might get (as we did) rain and wind — waterproof gear is a must.
Back at the estancia, Hernán Lisanti, chef of El Quincho, waits with a hearty lunch. “The idea is that people serve themselves, share, chat… It’s a mix of traditional Argentine dishes with a twist,” explains Lisanti. On the table: Swiss chard fritters, cauliflower gratin, roasted vegetables, and spiced rolled lamb.
Tip: When the season begins (from November to May), because it’s such a remote place, all staff move in and live on-site. You can learn more or make a reservation at this link.
Where: Boats depart from Puerto Punta Bandera, about 45 km from El Calafate.
Where to eat in El Calafate
A Time Out guide can’t skip foodie recommendations. This is a traditional restaurant where many visitors come to try the famous Patagonian lamb. As in any classic spot, the breadbasket is always full and roasted meats (they offer other cuts too) take center stage.
There are options for all tastes: pastas, salads, sharing boards, pizzas, and more. It’s located in the city center and has a relaxed, pleasant atmosphere.
Tip: You can reserve a table via WhatsApp at +54 9 2966 27-3546.
Where: Cnel. Rosales 28.
Mako Fuegos y Vinos
A different experience where local flavors combine with various cooking techniques in a 3-, 5-, or 7-course tasting menu. The chef, Matías Villalba, was born in La Cumbre (Córdoba) and moved to El Calafate. The concept is farm-to-table, and wine plays a starring role — the restaurant has a cellar with over 200 labels.
Most of what’s served at Mako comes from Matías’s own farm, which he cares for with his family. It’s a warm, elegant yet unpretentious space in the heart of the city. Some recommendations: corn soup with sheep’s cheese ice mousse (starter), Patagonian guanaco loin with puff pastry and beets (main), and calafate panna cotta with chocolate textures and red-berry ice cream from their farm (dessert).
Tip: You can make reservations at this link and view the menu here.
Where: Av. del Libertador 1223, El Calafate.
