Pedro Bargero: between the river, the sea, and the quest for an Argentine cuisine with identity

Pedro Bargero is one of those chefs who see gastronomy as uncharted territory. Self-taught, restless, and with ventures ranging from fine dining to entrepreneurship, today he splits his time between Costa7070, on Buenos Aires’ riverfront, and Mar Cocina Suratlántica, in Mar del Plata (check out what to do in La Feliz all year round). His cuisine looks to the river and the sea, seeks identity in the criollo and the Spanish, while also diving deep into the profession’s greatest challenges: from process efficiency to respect for natural resources. We talked to him about his current projects, the inspiration he draws from the Atlantic, the role of entrepreneurship, and what’s next in his culinary universe.

Costa7070 was born with a different take on Buenos Aires’ riverfront: river cuisine, cocktails, and enjoyment. What role does this project play in your culinary universe and what do you want to convey through it?

At Costa7070 I want to explore the cuisine of the Río de la Plata: fish, rice, everything the Paraná gives us, but also its link with the sea. It’s a meeting point between freshwater and saltwater, north and south, two different cultures within the same country. The proposal blends criollo flavors with reminiscences of Spanish gastronomy. Beyond the concept, it’s a big restaurant: large teams, many dishes that need to come out fast and well. That demands professionalism, process efficiency, no waste of products or time, and at the same time achieving spectacular results.

"At Costa7070 I want to explore the cuisine of the Río de la Plata"

At Mar Cocina Suratlántica, inside the Costa Galana, you’ve been working strongly with the sea as a territory. How do you envision the summer menu and what do you expect from the upcoming season in Mar del Plata?

In summer I think of a lighter menu: more steamed or confit fish and seafood, fewer grilled dishes. Sauces are fresh, fluid, sometimes even cold. There’s also a lot more use of raw fish and vegetables. In winter, on the other hand, there are more stews, slow-cooked preparations, and hearty dishes.

Also of interest: Where to eat well in Mar del Plata

You’ve been delving deeply into the relationship with the sea, from Mar Cocina Suratlántica to your work with seaweed. What inspires you about the Atlantic, and what do you think we’re still not taking advantage of as a country?

The Atlantic inspires me because it’s an unknown. In Argentina, the culture of the sea is very limited despite having miles of coastline. There’s a lack of access to quality fish and seafood; a lot gets wasted due to poor fishing and transport practices. The product exists, but often arrives in poor condition. Nets are used that destroy the seabed and much of the catch is discarded. There are scientists and harvesters doing tremendous work, but we need to revalue the sea, protect it, and spread knowledge. As a nation we’re powerful in beef, but the sea is a territory to explore that could transform Argentine cuisine.

"The sea is a territory to explore that could transform Argentine cuisine"

Besides cooking, you’re an entrepreneur: with projects like Aloja, Cardumen, or Amarra. What excites you most about entrepreneurship?

What excites me most is community—doing things with others, learning from mistakes, stepping out of the comfort zone. Entrepreneurship is moving forward, seeking both personal and collective evolution. Each project is born from a need: Cardumen, the magazine, to spread knowledge; Aloja because I believe non-alcoholic beverages play an important role, and right now young people end up drinking harmful sodas. I want to add healthier options. Entrepreneurship is about small achievements that allow you to materialize ideas and contribute something to the market.

Proyecto Pescado from Mar del Plata won this edition of the Baron B Grand Prix with a fish-based proposal. How do you receive this recognition and what does it mean to you that Argentine fishing is starting to gain prominence?

I’m really happy that the sea is beginning to draw attention. The team does incredible work: they go out fishing, they know and respect the product. Putting this issue on the table is key so that we all eat more fish and talk more about the Atlantic.

Also of interest: Proyecto Pescado, from Chapadmalal to Baron B gold with a cuisine that respects the sea

What projects excite you for the coming years and where do you want to take your cuisine? Any spoilers about what’s next?

I’m in a very full moment. After closing Chila, we opened Mar and Costa, and today my focus is on consolidating those two projects. I’ve learned that things take time: I want to fine-tune processes, be more efficient, work properly on recycling, product use, and team building. These projects are still young and there’s a lot left to do. Spoiler? I can’t say anything yet, but things are going to happen.

PING PONG

A dish that never fails at your table?

Rice.

An ingredient you can’t live without?

Sea salt.

An Argentine chef you admire?

Mauro Colagreco.

The best thing about working in Mar del Plata?

Its Argentine gastronomic culture.

A wine or drink you always recommend?

Aloja Kombucha or PH by Juguetes Perdidos.

The most fun part of entrepreneurship?

Turning an idea from your head into reality.

A dream pending outside the kitchen?

Sailing to Antarctica on a sailboat.