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[title]Sebastián Valles is a tireless entrepreneur. At 17, with money borrowed from his mother Dorita, he opened his first nightclub in Punta del Este: Bulldog. That gesture of maternal trust would forever mark his gastronomic path — and even give its name to his most iconic grill house. After that first venture came restaurants of all kinds — even a kids’ play center — until La Dorita was born in 2002. Today it has two locations in Buenos Aires (Humboldt 1892 and Bulnes 2593) and one in Madrid, along with its “rebel sister,” La Pescadorita. Through crises, trends, and openings, Valles has remained steady — a storm pilot who knows how to turn each project into a brand with its own identity and an experience that combines tradition, risk, and passion. In this interview, he shares how he keeps the flame of his classics alive and why La Dorita continues to be a benchmark for Argentine grill houses in Buenos Aires and beyond.
La Dorita opened in 2002 and has seen crises, trends, openings, and closings come and go. What have you changed to stay relevant, and what are those “non-negotiables” that you’ll never touch?
I always say that to live in Argentina you have to be a storm pilot. In other countries, everything seems easier, with fewer turbulences. Going back to your question — my non-negotiables are quality and service. Those don’t get negotiated, even if supplies get expensive. Everything else, I’ve updated over time: modernizing a restaurant from 2002, keeping it fresh, never letting it fall behind. But the essence — that never changes.
For you, design and atmosphere aren’t just details but part of the experience. La Dorita features works by Marcos López and an altar to Gauchito Gil. What story are you trying to tell with that mix, and how does it add to the dining experience?
I’ve always wanted the atmosphere to reflect identity. When you walk into La Dorita, La Pescadorita, or even Azul Profundo — that emblematic restaurant in Las Cañitas that I founded and sold in 2001 — you know exactly where you are. It’s not a generic restaurant with white tablecloths and three wine glasses. I want the décor to be part of the brand — something unique and recognizable.
Also of interest: The tavern that has been around for over 22 years and exports its argentine dishes to Europe
Your background is incredibly diverse: from nightlife and kids’ play centers to sushi at Azul Profundo and traditional grill houses. What lessons from those stages show up in how you run La Dorita and La Pescadorita today?
Ringo Bonavena, the boxer, used to say that experience is a comb life gives you when you’ve gone bald. I don’t agree. For me, experience helped before I lost my hair — it taught me not to make decisions in the heat of the moment, to take a step back and think. Living in Mar del Plata also helps: I visit often, but that distance gives me perspective. What I used to see as a full glass, now from afar I see as just a drop.
“Living in Mar del Plata gives me a different perspective on what happens here”
In such a tough time for Argentina’s restaurant scene, what does it mean for you to be “fair” to the customer?
For me, being fair means buying the best and selling it at a sensible price. The meat I use is the same as in the top steakhouses, the tomatoes are Italian, and the portions are generous. I hate raising prices — I really do — but sometimes there’s no other choice. I never want to be an expensive place or exclude anyone. I’d rather work with volume and keep prices reasonable.
“Being fair to the customer means buying the best and selling it at a sensible price”
Among pastas, meats, and desserts, there are “hit” dishes and hidden gems on the menu. Which ones represent La Dorita’s spirit, and which would you recommend for a pleasant surprise?
The entraña (skirt steak) never fails, the milanesas de bife de chorizo are a classic, and the mollejas (sweetbreads) are amazing. But the real hidden gems are the pastas: the beef tenderloin ravioli with sage butter surprise everyone, and the gnocchi with beef ragù are some of the best. They’re less ordered, but those who try them are blown away.
People talk a lot about “neo-bodegones” and the reinvention of the classics. How do you see that trend, and what sets La Dorita apart from that new wave?
I don’t like the term “neo-bodegón.” The bodegón has its own charm, and I don’t deny my beginnings there. But with so much competition, I chose to raise the bar: paying attention to the décor, the chairs, the tables — keeping everything tidy and elegant without losing essence. There are things I share with that new generation and others I don’t, but my focus has always been on doing the classics — milanesas, ravioli, stews — and doing them the best way possible.
After more than 20 years with La Dorita and everything you’ve built, what does this place represent for you today — work, passion, legacy… or a bit of everything?
It’s been 35 years in this business, and for me La Dorita is everything: work, passion, legacy, family. La Pescadorita too — she’s like my rebellious daughter. After closing Azul Profundo and having the first Dorita on that magical corner, transforming it into La Pescadorita and making it a success was a huge pride. Getting people who used to come for a great steak to also try fish and seafood was a challenge — and one we won.
I always say we were the first to make a real Spanish-style paella — thin, with real seafood, none of that inflated yellow rice without flavor. And now you see hundreds trying to copy it.
For me, this is everything: work, passion, sacrifice, and a lot of satisfaction. I’m involved 24/7 — even when I travel or take vacations. Argentina can be tough and ungrateful sometimes, but thanks to this effort, we keep moving forward. So yes — it’s a bit of everything, maybe “too much of everything,” but I wouldn’t have it any other way.