What to do in Retiro, a neighborhood with a european flair

The neighborhood is just one, but depending on the time and day you visit, it shows a different side. It’s not the same to walk through its streets on a Monday morning, a weekday at noon, or a Saturday night. Retiro offers multiple circuits and changes its profile according to the weekly schedule and its visitors. Part of Comuna 1, bordering San Nicolás and Puerto Madero, it is perhaps one of the areas that best reflects the European imprint of the early 20th century.

There are art galleries, luxury hotels, and even a stretch of Argentina’s most famous pedestrian shopping street: Florida Street. There are specialty coffee shops, historic bars, and old-school cantinas. There are restaurants hidden inside palaces and mansions that recall an aristocratic era. At the same time, new areas have emerged, such as Puerto Retiro, an urban hub with major real estate developments that aims to replicate New York’s Meatpacking District and sits near the Quinquela Martín Cruise Terminal. There are offices and people who only come to Retiro to work, but at the same time, demand is growing among new residents who choose the neighborhood as their home.

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What to See in Plaza San Martín

Above all, Retiro has a wealth of history. It’s common to see tourists and school groups wandering its streets, squares, and monuments almost daily. A great place to begin exploring is Plaza San Martín, redesigned in 1936 by French landscape architect Carlos Thays and located on one of Buenos Aires’ few remaining natural slopes. Among other historical events, in 1812 General San Martín established the barracks of the Regiment of Mounted Grenadiers there. For that reason, it was chosen as the site of the first monument in Argentina to honor the Liberator.

Another landmark in the neighborhood is the Torre Monumental, popularly known as Torre de los Ingleses. It stands in the square across from the train station. Last year, the city government restored the tower, reopening the sixth-floor viewing deck at 40 meters high—a must for the views.

From Plaza San Martín, paths branch out in many directions. Crossing Avenida Santa Fe leads to Palacio Paz (Santa Fe 750), one of the grandest and most luxurious residences of the early 20th century, once home to José C. Paz, founder of La Prensa. For more than 80 years, it has been the headquarters of the Military Circle. The mansion reportedly has 140 rooms, in addition to its salons and common areas.

Since 2021, Palacio Paz has also housed Croque Madame, a refined dining spot located on the second floor. Diners can choose between an elegant dining room or the palace’s inner garden with outdoor seating. The “Palace Sunset” menu, available daily from noon to 8 p.m., features small plates ideal for sharing.

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A Coffee at the Kavanagh

Another icon facing the square is the Kavanagh Building, a residential tower at 1065 Florida Street. Once the tallest building in South America, it was the first to feature luxury details like air conditioning. Declared a National Historic Monument in 1999, its latest addition is Cora Café (Florida 1045), a cozy coffee shop named after Corina Kavanagh, the building’s visionary. Its lacquered wooden tables, vintage tableware, and architecture make it worth a stop.

Still on the plaza, the Palacio San Martín stands out as the ceremonial headquarters of Argentina’s Foreign Ministry. Nearby, the historic Hotel Plaza is undergoing a major renovation. Once host to figures like Luciano Pavarotti, Jorge Luis Borges, Louis Armstrong, and the Spanish royal family, the hotel’s new project will combine hospitality, dining, and high-end residences priced between USD 6,000 and USD 8,800 per square meter.

What Art Galleries, Churches, and Museums Are in Retiro?

Retiro is home to museums such as the National Railway Museum (Libertador 405), the National Arms Museum (Santa Fe 702), and Palacio Paz. There are also art galleries and churches, including the Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento (San Martín 1035), one of Buenos Aires’ most lavish temples. Daily Mass is celebrated, but even non-worshippers visit to admire its stained glass, marble and granite details, bronze work, and Venetian mosaics.

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A ten-minute walk from the basilica, through Plaza San Martín and along Esmeralda, Juncal, and the grand Arroyo Street—with its many art galleries, Hotel Casa Lucía and its bar Le Club Bacan (Arroyo 841), the award-winning Florería Atlántico (Arroyo 872), Brasero Atlántico, and Farinelli (Arroyo & Suipacha)—leads to the Museo Fernández Blanco (Suipacha 1422). Its Palacio Noel site, a neo-colonial mansion, features a stunning Andalusian-inspired courtyard and fruit trees.

Within this hidden green oasis is another gem: Los Jardines de las Barquín, a restaurant by Germán Sitz, Pedro Peña, and Alejandro Feraud. Many locals discover this historic spot for the first time through its dining experience.

Restaurants in Retiro: The New Dining Hub of Buenos Aires

Noodle 

For lunch, after-office drinks, or dinner, Retiro has spent nearly a decade building a reputation as one of the city’s new gastronomic hubs, rivaling Villa Devoto. Initially modest, the food scene now offers a wide range of options. Retiro appeals to those tired of Palermo’s dominance, seeking excellent food “without all the fanfare,” as engineer Guillermo Straus puts it, while celebrating an anniversary dinner with his girlfriend at Saigón Noodle Bar (Marcelo T. de Alvear 818).

But beyond Vietnamese street food, Retiro caters to every taste. Tanta (Esmeralda 938), a Peruvian Creole restaurant by celebrated chef Gastón Acurio, serves generous homestyle portions. Kuro Neko (Paraguay 831), by chef Raúl Zorrilla, went viral for introducing Buenos Aires’ first nori taco bar.

On Carlos Pellegrini 1179, the latest arrival is Chocho Sushi, offering a creative, intimate, and relaxed sushi experience focused on technique, fresh ingredients, and hospitality.

Where Is Puerto Retiro?

Finally, the neighborhood’s newest area to explore is Puerto Retiro. Set in a portside environment next to the new Hotel Almarena and the striking Casa de la Moneda building, sommelier and restaurateur Aldo Graziani opened Áncora (Pasaje Pedro Zanni 351). The restaurant reimagines Rio de la Plata cuisine with abundant, homestyle dishes. Its name, meaning “anchor” in Italian, is symbolic: “It represents a refuge, a pause, a place where roots take hold and flavors come alive,” Graziani explains.