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There's something wonderfully indulgent about an evening at The Royal Countess Zingara. It's an invitation to leave the ordinary behind, dress up, embrace your eccentric side and step into a world where almost anything goes.
And if you've not recently experienced the magic of Zingara, you're certainly in for a treat.
The latest production, Melanina – Return to Origin, opened at Century City on 10 October, bringing a fresh chapter of theatrical dining and extraordinary physical performances to Cape Town.
But if, like me, your point of reference is last year's outstanding La Dolce Royal, you can't help but do a little comparison between the two. And I much prefer the variety of last year's production.
That's not to say Melanina isn't worth experiencing, far from it.
A wonderfully whimsical welcome
If there's one area where Melanina raises the bar, it's the arrival experience. From the moment you enter, there's a sense of stepping through the looking glass. It's a distinctly Zingarian interpretation of Lewis Carroll's Alice in Wonderland, but with a South African creative flavour, featuring iconic figures including Winnie Mandela, Miriam Makeba and Hugh Masekela.
The exterior spaces and installations offer a more immersive experience. Inside the plush Spiegeltent, all the old-world glamour is still there. The seating has been slightly changed up, with the booths still offering a cosy elevation. The inner circle is the prime spot, though.
Extraordinary talent, but the pace felt different
Conceptualised by Richard Griffin and jointly directed by Craig Leo and Valentina Leo, Melanina delivers a celebration of diversity and creative connection.
Some moments remind you why Zingara has built such a loyal following over the past 25 years. The skill, physical strength and sheer discipline behind these acts are extraordinary.
Slack wire specialist Stephane Pansa from French Guiana delivers a remarkable display of balance and control, while Ethiopian human jugglers Mohamed and Henri perform feats that almost defy belief.
A seven-piece live band adds to the atmosphere, while emcee Donovan Yaards delivers a strong rendition of Prince's "Purple Rain". And yet, taken as a whole, Melanina doesn't quite reach the heights of its predecessor.
Last year's La Dolce Royal seemed to deliver one outstanding act after another, with a greater variety of performances and a pace that kept the audience captivated from the outset. It's a little hard to pinpoint precisely what's amiss, whether it's the transitions between acts or a theatrical gravitas that doesn't quite materialise.
And that's a pity, because Zingara has always been about so much more than an elaborate supper club.
The food is a triumph!
Where Melanina really does outshine last year's production is on the plate. The multi-course menu is really good.
The vegetarian starter, served with sides of fresh salad, chilli and yoghurt, was good, while the fillet with bone marrow and veggie sides is cooked to perfection. There is a fish and a vegetarian option main that our dinner companions said was delicious.
The portions are generous, too. And while Zingara's signature chilli chocolate fillet was noticeably absent from the menu, the miniature dessert trolley was the perfect close, offering an assortment of bite-sized sweets, including carrot cake and delicious Turkish delight.
A little less magic in the service
Of course, part of Zingara's charm is its eccentric floor fairies and fantastical waiters who bring a playful unpredictability to the evening. Unfortunately, our rather fabulous fox waiter was rather inconsistent, particularly with drinks.
A word of advice: I would rather opt for a bottle of wine from the good selection available, as the cocktails took an extraordinarily long time to arrive. An incorrect order also meant an even longer wait.
A small frustration, perhaps, but for an experience at this level, the finer details matter.
So, is Melanina worth your time?
Absolutely, particularly if you're new to the world of Zingara, there really is very little else quite like it in Cape Town. While they might have set a high bar with La Dolce Royal, the overall setting and dining experience have been elevated. Weighed on its own merits Melanina remains an entertaining and delightfully unconventional evening out.
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What you need to know
- What: The Royal Countess Zingara presents Melanina – Return to Origin
- Where: Century City, Cape Town
- When: Running until January 2027
- Tickets: From R1,250 per person, including welcome drinks, canapés, a multi-course dinner and the three-act show.
- Bookings: Via the official Zingara website or WhatsApp on 060 663 1461.
- Age restriction: PG13.
Worth knowing: Two Zingara productions are running simultaneously. You can still catch La Dolce Royal at Melrose Arch in Johannesburg until February 2027.
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