Idlanathi Pollsmoor Restaurant

Cape Town is widely recognised as the culinary capital of Africa; a city full of restaurants – here's the Time Out pick of the best restaurants in Cape Town – serving up refined dining, stylish décor, and menus that draw on both local and international culinary influences. But there are not many places in Cape Town where the lunchtime crowd includes a couple of curious locals (myself included), a handful of prison warders grabbing a quick bite, and kitchen staff dressed in bright orange overalls stamped with “Corrections”. 

Then again, few places aim to offer convicted criminals a way back into the workforce while providing hungry diners with an affordable meal. But that’s what you’ll find at Idlanathi – isiZulu for "eat with us" – the staff canteen at Cape Town’s notorious Pollsmoor Prison. 

The watchtowers of Pollsmoor brood above the leafy streets of Tokai, an upmarket corner of the city’s southern suburbs. It is a place of expensive homes, private golf clubs, and – strangely – one of South Africa’s most notorious prisons. A maximum security facility packed to the rafters with gangsters, murderers, and those convicted of myriad heinous crimes. 

Happily, you won’t meet a single one of them at Idlanathi. Working here is a privilege offered only to low-risk prisoners convicted of non-violent crimes who have shown good behaviour. For them, it’s both a chance to escape the monotony of prison life and learn a few skills that will help them integrate back into the outside world. For staff, it’s a cheap lunch, and for visitors – like me – it’s a rare glimpse inside a cloistered world.

The vibe

After being given a cursory look-over by the gate guards and driving through the tidy but modest estate of warders’ houses, I pulled up outside the Pollsmoor Recreational Centre for a meal that certainly won’t win any awards, but is an experience unique in Cape Town. 

Idlanathi may be a restaurant open to outsiders, but it mainly serves as the staff canteen for Pollsmoor warders. So, set your expectations accordingly. The lighting is harsh, the floor is linoleum, and the tables are simple. However, they make an effort. There are fake flowers to brighten the room, and usually a sports match on the TV. From the large, single room that makes up the restaurant, there are sliding doors leading out to a small courtyard, but they were barred and locked when I visited. 

Service

While the décor is underwhelming, the service during my visits (I’ve been twice) has always been warm and eager to please, if not entirely polished.

While serving the guards and families residing on Pollsmoor estate – the clientele is a mix of curious locals and robust prison warders – the canteen is mostly an opportunity for low-risk prisoners, who are nearing release, a chance to gain practical experience and on-the-job training. Peek through the kitchen doors and you’ll see cooks in orange jumpsuits whipping up your lunch. Chances are they’ll also be serving at your table, and guests are encouraged to interact with the inmates. My most memorable chat was with Paul (not his real name), who was serving six years at Pollsmoor for poaching perlemoen. While prisoners are generally willing to chat, do so respectfully. And remember, no photographs are allowed of either the prisoners or the warders.  

The food

Idlanathi’s menu is a greatest hits menu of canteen comfort food classics. Think hearty breakfast plates and omelettes, toasted sandwiches and dagwoods, burgers, schnitzels, ribs, chops, and chips. The Russian-and-chips seems to be a hit with the warders, but I went straight for the fried fish and chips. While it’s not going to win any awards, it arrived crispy, well-seasoned, and with a generous side of tartare sauce. And, it cost the grand total of R60. 

Sandwiches start at fifteen bucks. Even the most expensive item – a T-bone steak – is a good-value R150. The enormous chicken schnitzel is a steal at R55.

To drink? There are no bars here, bar the obvious, and no alcohol is served, but there is a small choice of soft drinks. Sadly, when I asked for Iron Brew – what I thought was an appropriately metallic choice for a prison restaurant – they were out of stock.

Why go?

For a lunch unlike any other in Cape Town. Aside from the low prices and the novelty of walking through the gates of Pollsmoor, there’s a deeper human story here worth uncovering.

Pollsmoor is often portrayed as little more than a den filled with dangerous criminals, but a visit to Idlanathi reveals a more human side to that story. Take the time to speak with the prisoners, if they are willing, and it’s enlightening to hear how a few bad choices can change the course of a life. 

And, be sure to tip. Prisoners serving guests get to keep their tips and are proud – beyond the money – of being recognised for good service.

Time Out Tip

Idlanathi isn’t the only prison restaurant worth a visit worldwide. In England, The Clink Charity operates a restaurant inside the walls of His Majesty’s Prison Brixton, offering high-end bistro cuisine cooked by prisoners training in hospitality skills. Similarly, in Milan’s Bollate prison, InGalera operates a social cooperative in prisoner rehabilitation. It’s the only restaurant in Italy located within the walls of a prison.

How to dine in Pollsmoor Prison

Where: Idlanathi is situated within the Pollsmoor Prison complex. Visitors must use the entrance on Glenbrae Avenue, off Tokai Road (not the main prison entrance on Steenberg Road).

Opening hours: Breakfast is served from 8am – 11am, lunch from 11am – 1.30pm

Payment: Both cash and card payments are accepted, although cash is preferred.

Remember: Photographing staff and inmates is strictly prohibited. 

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