Eating my way through Cape Town’s oldest township
Nick Hamman | Langa deserves our attention, our appetites and a place in how we experience Cape Town.
Nick Hamman

The food tour through Cape Town's oldest township you have to try!

Roosterkoek, sizzling shisanyama and seriously good fish and chips: Nick Hamman explores the food, people and living culture of Langa.

Nick Hamman
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There’s so much more to Cape Town than the postcard. See the mountains, beaches and wine farms. I encourage it. But leave time for the neighbourhoods that rarely make the holiday brochure, where so much of the city’s real everyday life happens. A good place to start? A food tour in Langa.

Come hungry. That’s my first piece of advice for exploring with Phumelele Ndwe, a guide whose love for his neighbourhood is matched by his determination to get you eating your way through it. 

Established in 1927 under segregation-era legislation, Cape Town’s oldest township carries a complicated history. There’s also enormous beauty here: in the homes people open to you, the businesses they’ve built and the pride with which they share their food.

Xhosa culture runs through daily life here. Depending on when you visit, you might encounter wedding celebrations, traditional dress or families gathering for ceremonies.

These are people’s lives unfolding around you, and having a local guide helps you understand what you’re seeing to deepen your appreciation and respect.

ICYMI: Cape Town’s Tourism Month looks to widen the tourist map beyond the usual hotspots

Nick Hamman is a South African broadcaster, storyteller, and food-culture creator. He is the host of 5FM’s national breakfast show, 5 Breakfast, and the creator of Hammy Eats, a platform dedicated to discovering the people, places, and stories behind South African food.

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Start with bread and butter

Our first stop is Waya Rostile, where roosterkoek comes out of a home kitchen, warm and ready to eat. This is bread cooked over coals, with a gently charred outside and a soft centre. Paired with gemmer, the sweet, gingery drink many South Africans grew up with, it’s a magnificent start.

Two roosterkoek later, my ambitious plan to pace myself is already in trouble.

Next is Eziko, a cooking school and restaurant giving locals practical skills for careers in hospitality. We tuck into scones with lots of butter and lots of cheese. Baking becomes a route into work here, and your visit helps support that.

Follow the smoke

In Langa’s bustling centre, Nomzamo Butchery is a family-run classic where every day is braai day. Choose your meat, have it cooked while you wait, and take in the conversations, passing taxis and bustle around you. The smell alone is enough to get you ordering. It’s bloody brilliant.

Near the taxi rank, Mazoe Restu serves hard-body chicken. The name refers to a mature bird with firmer meat that needs longer cooking, rewarding that patience with a rich chicken flavour. It’s a staple of many South African home kitchens, and this version earns my Hammy stamp of approval.

Then comes my highlight: KwaAmanda. Livers, fat and lamb, beautifully spiced and cooked over open flames, with Table Mountain in the background. Smoke, spice and the richness of the meat come together in a mouthful worth travelling for. The locals rate it against any rival. I understand why.

Finish with fish

We wrap up at Sozito’s, an Angolan-owned spot serving what I’m happy to call Langa’s best fish and chips.

By this point, I’m properly full. But I’ve also spent time with people, heard their stories and put money directly into their businesses. Langa deserves our attention, our appetites and a place in how we experience Cape Town.

Need to know

Book: Phumelele Ndwe, Eat African With Me
Location: Langa, Cape Town
Contact: 073 712 1470
Online: View Phumelele’s food tour

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