Michael Chandler
Photograph: Michael Chandler
Photograph: Michael Chandler

Local Intel: Michael Chandler

As famous for his glorious ceramics as his quirky sense of artistic humour, Michael Chandler's Cape Town is filled with negronis and 'magic trees'...

Richard Holmes
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Want to know where the locals love to go? In this exclusive series on Time Out Cape Town, ‘Local Intel’ taps into some of the city’s best-connected characters to unearth the corners you simply can’t miss in the Mother City.

Artist and designer Michael Chandler – founder of Chandler House in the Bo-Kaap – has spent the past decade (and then some) building one of Cape Town’s most distinctive creative worlds.

Born in East London in 1985, Chandler moved to Cape Town with his family in 2000 and went on to study at the University of Cape Town, where literature, philosophy and art history helped shape the rich visual language that runs through his work today.

His early career took him deep into the worlds of antiques, auctions and decorative arts, from Stephan Welz & Co to Cape Dutch dealer Deon Viljoen, Everard Read and back into the auction world as a furniture specialist, before he launched Chandler House as a space to bring together art, antiques, design and what he has called his “burning creativity”.

Since then, Chandler has become known for ceramics, objects and interiors that draw on the visual history of the Cape, blending ornament and botany into storytelling with a distinctly playful eye. Along the way, he has exhibited at the South African National Gallery, collaborated with major retailers on whimsical homeware, been selected as the artist for the 2017 Nederburg Wine Auction and recently made waves with his large-scale hand-painted ceramic murals.

He’s nothing short of a household name, and yet when we asked him to feature in Local Intel, he was quick to point out that he’s become a homebody of note, and is happiest spending time with his dog and partner in his Bo-Kaap home and studio.

“I’ve become such a bore, because all I do is work!” he says with a laugh. “I do go to a few places, but I certainly don’t go out the way I used to. Five years ago, I was never at home!”

But then, those are the places that count, right? The places where locals choose to spend their precious time off, soaking up all that this wonderful city has to offer. So, whether it’s a great sourdough or a negroni done right, here are the corners of this “magical” city that Michael Chandler can’t do without...

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Corners that fill Chandler's creative cup...

Lion’s Bread

I love Lion’s Bread in the Bo-Kaap. Jack started it in lockdown, baking bread from his father’s basement, and it has grown in a way I really admire. The bread is so good. It’s thoughtful, it’s done intentionally. The pastries are lovely. I also like that they’ve grown slowly. So many places lose what made them special once they expand too quickly. They also do Deluxe coffee, which is the only coffee I drink. I genuinely travel overseas with it because I can’t not have good coffee.

81 Rose Street, Bo-Kaap

Wardia’s stand

While you’re waiting for your coffee, go to Wardia, who has the little stalletjie right outside. Her koesisters are unbelievable, but honestly, her potato samoosas are next level. I don’t often choose a vegetarian option to meat, but the potato samosas are where you want to be. When she’s sold out, usually by midday, she packs up and go.

Outside 81 Rose Street, Bo-Kaap

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Disa season on Table Mountain

One of my favourite Cape Town rituals is going up Table Mountain when the disas are flowering. We do it every year around February and call it ‘Disa Minelli. This year we went up Nursery Ravine, and it was extraordinary. The left-hand side of Castle Rock was in shade, and it was dripping with red disas. I love those seasonal moments on the mountain.

Hiking trails for the disas leave from Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Also check out our guide to the best day hikes in Cape Town

The “magic tree”

I go up the mountain once a week, and there’s a lone oak tree on the contour path near the big waterfall near Platteklip Gorge that I call the magic tree. I go there when there are wishes to be made, or at the end of the year, or when I want to mark something quietly. Do I really believe in magic in a tree? Probably not. But I do believe that you have to make magic in life where you can. And that’s one of those places for me.

Hiking trails for Platteklip Gorge leave from Tafelberg Road

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Camps Bay tidal pool

I like walking along the Camps Bay tidal pool (it's also #2 on our list of the Best tidal pools in Cape Town!) stretch. You’ve got the beach, the pool, the rocks and that whole sweep of coastline, which is just beautiful.

Victoria Road, Camps Bay

Oranjezicht City Farm Market

I still love the Oranjezicht City Farm Market, though it has become hectic, and I always tell people to go, but go early because it gets hectic. What they’ve created there is really special, but I think it’s best enjoyed before the crowds pile in. For visitors especially, it’s one of those places that gives you a very immediate sense of the city.

V&A Waterfront, Cape Town

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Company’s Garden

Every time I walk through the Company’s Garden, I think: wow, this really is one of the most beautiful parts of Cape Town, and it’s available to everyone. It’s one of those places locals can take for granted, but it always affects me when I’m there.

Entrance off Wale or Queen Victoria Street, Cape Town

Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel

If you’re visiting Cape Town, I’d say go to the Mount Nelson for a glass of rosé or a cocktail on the terrace. What they’ve done there over the past couple of years is remarkable. Yes, it’s expensive, but you’re paying for that setting; the gardens, the furniture, the atmosphere, the whole feeling of the place. It’s very special.

Orange Street, Cape Town

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The Vineyard Hotel

My partner is obsessed with The Vineyard, and swears that they do the best Negroni in Cape Town. We’ll go there after a show at the Baxter Theatre.

Colinton Road, Claremont

Enmasse

I went to Enmasse recently for a 90-minute massage and it was amazing. It’s opposite the Gardens Centre by the Hope Street Post Office, and it’s the kind of place you could almost walk past without noticing. I love that it feels slightly hidden and a little old-school. Put on the white cotton pyjamas, book Gail, and do the full 90 minutes. Also, they play proper cool lounge music, not awful spa panpipes, which I really appreciate.

123 Hope Street, Gardens

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Cederberg Mountains

If I’m leaving Cape Town for a weekend, I love the Cederberg. We usually stay at Rockwood Farm in the southern Cederberg. It’s very family-friendly, unpretentious and good value, and the views are so beautiful. Sit still, you look at the landscape, you play cards (I love bridge), you read, you slow down.

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