Chiang Mai
Photograph: CNXlocal
Photograph: CNXlocal

Pong Noi: The ultimate neighborhood guide

Chiang Mai’s buzzy, forested suburb in the foothills of Doi Suthep

Lucie Grace
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What’s Pong Noi known for?

These days, when you first hear of Pong Noi, it’s either an invite to a creative workshop, an art event or because pizza is calling. Adirak Pizza has undoubtedly put the ‘hood on the map in the past couple of years and for good reason. 

Why do the locals love it?

Pong Noi folks will happily spend all week in their neighbourhood as it has everything they could possibly need – great coffee, great food, loads of entertainment and nature in extremely close proximity, if not their back garden.

How do I get to the area?

Pong Noi is the furthest west point of Suthep, wedged between Canal Road and the mountain. It’s just a 10-minute motorbike ride west of the Old City, or you can hop on the CMU bus; the route no.97 goes from the western edge of the old city into the university campus, which stretches along the northern flank of Pong Noi, which is pretty walkable. Check out the buses here.

Maps

If you only do one thing: 

Order the Pesto Ricotta pizza from Adirak. No, we are not sponsored by them. Yes you can thank us later for changing your life.

Pong Noi: The ultimate neighborhood guide

Where to eat

Centrifugal to the area’s dining scene, as we’ve so clearly established, is Adirak Pizza, whose art lined walls and large kiln oven provide a feast for the eyes and taste buds. There’s more than just Neapolitan fluffy slices on the chalk board menu here though; indulge in their delectable salads and sweet treats to complete the experience before you roll yourself out of the glass doors. The other top fast food joint in town, Roamer Burger Woodside, sits in the corner of Baan Kang Wat arts market, luring shoppers in with the aroma of carnivorous delights that include local beef patties or meaty morsels from Australia. Lunch in the hood doesn’t come finer than Lamour Cafe’s cutesy spot, with premium Thai plates served, but if you’re on a budget pop over to G’day Mates, whose brunch menu (did someone say ‘eggs benedict’) is surprisingly affordable considering how delicious it all is.

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Where to drink

Given that Chiang Mai’s coffee scene has been popping for a decade now, it’ll come as no surprise that Pong Noi has excellent cafes that meet all your caffeine needs. Local chain GRAPH Baankangwat has a minimalist vibe while our favourite Ram Poeng Cafe is packed full of piles on cassette tapes and players – the collection belongs to the kindly owners who don’t mind taking musical requests as you enjoy your brew. Sensation Coffee Roasters and MaliPai Roastery & Cafe bring up the helm with fantastic home roasted local beans. Not a coffee drinker? Mini Juice Bar has got your back, and your five-a-day. Or if you’re in the market for a stiff drink later in the evening Sucha Bar and Blablabar, behind Lansieow Freeative Art Space, have quite the late night vibe.

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Where to shop

It wouldn’t be a Pong Noi guide without another big shout out for Baan Kang Wat, the busy arts market spot attracting visitors. It’s busy, is what we’re saying, but fab nonetheless. It’s a great nook for browsing the wares of the city’s artisans, with silversmiths, clothes designers, aromatherapists and painters with little stores packed into the warren-like market. Many offer creative sessions to make everything from your own keyring to spoon or plant pot. Buskers provide the soundtrack here and there’s food stalls galore, selling everything from khao soy to burgers and pizza. 

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Things to do

You’ve probably heard of some of the restaurants and venues that sit in a circle within Lansieow Freeative Art Space, an open air hub that’s been putting the neighbourhood on the map the past few years. Its cornerstone is experimental performance spot Kindred Studio that hosts a weekly improv night, monthly poetry and spoken word night called Magic Theatre, and live music across the spectrum of genres, all in their cosy living room-esque walls. It’s a real ‘come as a stranger, leave as a friend’ vibe. The outside space at Lansieow is just as community focused, with the lovelies from Green Dog Dispensary putting on regular events from corn-hole competitions to an annual dog show, Furry Friends. If visual arts are more your thing, Pongnoi Community Art Space, tucked behind the temple, Wat Pong Noi, is home to four gallery spaces that show ceramics, illustration, paintings and more, with exhibitions from visiting artists and recent CMU graduates. Another one for your gallery radar is 31st Century Museum, a contemporary arts space with thought provoking installations at the temporary exhibitions in this high-ceiled house conversion. And if you're in need of a relaxing afternoon, book in for a treat at The Pattern Thai Massage, who’ve created a blissful sanctuary in a residential corner off the main road. Or, if you’re feeling spiritual, pop to Wat Umong and Wat Pongnoi to meditate and call in some post shopping spree zen.

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Where to stay

The old city this ain’t. But there’s a few options of places to rest your head, from the sublime to the really really ridiculously sublime. One of the finest stays and wellness retreats in Northern Thailand, Aleenta Retreat Chiang Mai, sits just north of Wat Umong and is a healthy, rejuvenating stay of the most lux variety that you simply won’t want to leave. For the more budget conscious, the poorly named B2 Suthep Night Market Premier Resort is actually a winner - their crisp, resort style rooms around the swish swimming pool are super friendly on the wallet. Or for the tent loving amongst you, glamping spot Camp Cayla Eden really makes the most of Pong Noi’s bucolic views, but with all your creature comforts in their fancy, air-conditioned tents.

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