Marisa Marchitelli
Photograph: Marisa Marchitelli
Photograph: Marisa Marchitelli

Got 3 days? Chiang Rai is worth every one of them

Take a long weekend road trip through the city’s evolving food scene, craft culture and wide-open countryside

Marisa Marchitelli
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Chiang Rai is often reduced to a quick temple stop from Chiang Mai. Stay a little longer and the province reveals something much more compelling. 

This is one of Thailand’s most agricultural regions, where rice fields stretch across broad valleys, tea plantations climb the hillsides and small hilltribe villages sit between long mountain ridges. It’s expansive, lightly populated and best explored by car.

That connection to the land feeds directly into the food. Chefs here are working with an exceptional range of local ingredients, from rare mountain herbs and fermented vegetables to forest produce and tea grown just down the road. The result is a foodie scene that feels grounded, inventive and increasingly worth the drive. 

Add to that pottery studios, tea houses and riverside cafes spread across the countryside and it’s pretty clear that Chiang Rai rewards those willing to take their time. 

And with time in mind, here’s how to spend a long weekend discovering a different  side to the province of the city of kings.

Day 1 – Art, a standout northern dinner and funky flavoured cocktails

  • Art
  • Chiang Rai

The gallery’s modern structure rises cleanly from the surrounding farmland, creating a sharp contrast with the rural landscape. Outside, a sculptural bamboo installation forms a tunnel-like walkway that draws visitors inward, opening up to a circular performance space at its core that’s occasionally used for events and gatherings.

Inside, the focus is on artists connected to Chiang Rai and the wider northern region, giving the space a strong sense of local identity. Exhibitions rotate, with many works exploring environmental and social themes tied to the area. One of the most compelling threads centres on the contamination of the Kok River, with artists responding through painting, installation and mixed media.

Chiang Rai Contemporary Art Museum. Rim Kok, Chiang Rai. 9am-5pm, closed Monday

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  • Property
  • Chiang Rai

Set inside a beautifully restored 103-year-old residence, Singhaklai House Art Gallery offers a layered and intimate cultural stop. Originally known as the OMF Missionary House and designed by Dr William A. Briggs, the building has been carefully restored by the Modchanapai Foundation and now functions as both a learning centre and art space. The structure itself is part of the experience, with its historic architecture and shaded verandas giving a continuity between past and present.

The setting feels warm and inviting, like stepping into a private home. Upstairs, changing exhibitions showcase works by national artists and established Thai names, alongside pieces that reflect the identity and landscape of Chiang Rai. Downstairs, the space opens up into a café, making it an easy place to spend time reading a good book.

Singhaklai House Art Gallery. 628 Singhaklai Road, Chiang Rai. 8am-5pm, closed Wednesday

  • Chiang Rai

Chef Amarin ‘Arm’ Sriphan brings both warmth and depth to the table. Gracious and deeply passionate, he walks patrons through his dishes rooted in northern Thai culinary history, with each plate tied to a personal story. His father, Vatcharin Bhumichitr, was a notable Thai cookbook author and that influence runs through the menu – this is food as memory, research and revival.

The seasonal menu unfolds as a ‘Thai culinary journey’, beginning with small bites of kai kwa, a crispy fried egg with rice crackers and minced shrimp, alongside miang kana wrapped in kale leaves and grilled chicken satay. From there, dishes build in depth, including nam prik kapi served with fresh and blanched vegetables, salted duck and turmeric-boiled prawns.

The highlight is the Chiang Saen-style hung lay curry, a slow-braised pork dish that leans into older interpretations of the recipe – more reduced, more vegetal – with the inclusion of pickled mustard greens – and more complex than the protein-focused versions commonly found today. It offers a glimpse into how the dish may have originally been prepared. Dessert continues with traditional sweets like thong muan, pandan custard and a more adventurous fermented soybean ice cream. This is easily one of the most memorable meals you can have in Chiang Rai.

Maison de Chiang Rai. Muang, Chiang Rai. By reservation only. 5:30pm-10pm

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  • Chiang Rai

End your evening at one of the most original bars in northern Thailand. Marked only by a spray-painted sign outside and a glowing neon banana, Ba(r)nana is a ten-seat cocktail bar built around fermentation experiments. Glass jars line the walls, filled with pickled fruits and unexpected ingredients that will eventually find their way into cocktails.

There’s no menu and every drink is B180. Owner-bartender Kiattikoon ‘Toon’ Auengkum asks what flavour profiles you like and builds something on the spot, sometimes guided by your answers, sometimes inspired by whatever he feels like making in the moment.

A handwritten scribble alongside the bar makes it clear that everything is homemade, ingredients are locally sourced and open-mindedness is expected. It’s equal parts philosophy and warning. The drinks lean playful and surprising such as the larb-inspired cocktail which somehow lands as savoury and refreshing at the same time. Another features fermented crab. Not everything sounds immediately appealing, but often it is and that’s part of the experience.

Ba(r)nana. Rop Wiang, Chiang Rai. Reservation only. 7pm-12am

Day 2 – Breakfast, pottery, tea and a lazy afternoon

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  • Cafés
  • Chiang Rai

Around the corner from the famous blue temple, Chivit Thamma Da leans fully into the nostalgia of an old riverside home with vintage interiors, intricately layered details and a sense of history that feels convincing – even though the space is relatively new. The setting is half of the appeal with lush garden seating spilling out toward the river, shaded by enormous flame trees, romantic fountains and architecture draped in vines and climbing roses. There’s even a cute, non-aggressive rooster wandering about.

With a clear focus on local sourcing, the menu highlights ingredients from nearby producers and coffee grown in Doi Chang and Doi Phahee. There are sweet touches to be discovered such as the piano sitting on the edge of the porch with a politely firm note inviting guests to play (only if they actually know how).

Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House. Bannrongseartean, Chiang Rai. 9am-6pm

  • Things to do
  • Classes and workshops
  • Chiang Rai

Doy Din Dang reads less like a destination gallery and more like an active, working environment shaped by the land around it. Low buildings sit among trees and garden paths, with open workspaces that make it easy to catch a glimpse of the ceramic-crafting process.

The studio was founded by esteemed ceramicist Somluk Pantiboon, a Thai National Artist, recognised for his fusion of Japanese techniques and Northern Thai terroir. Clay is sourced locally and fired in traditional wood kilns, resulting in surfaces and hues that shift subtly from piece to piece.

Walking through the property, you move between work areas, shady garden paths lined by infinite pots and display spaces without any clear boundaries. Inside, shelves are packed with stoneware in every shape and size, in natural tones and organic forms. Many pieces are designed for everyday use, but the craftsmanship and sensitivity to material elevate them to statement pieces.

Doy Din Dang Pottery. Nang Lae, Chiang Rai. 8:30am-4:30pm, closed Sunday

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  • Cafés
  • Chiang Rai

Sawanbondin translates to ‘heaven on earth’ and the space is just that. Flooded with natural light, the tea room opens up to a surrounding farm, with natural materials, soft tones and an overall sense of calm that sets the perfect ambiance for a tea ceremony.

Chiang Rai is one of Thailand’s key tea-growing regions and the focus here is entirely on locally grown leaves. Teas are prepared with precision, often served in simple, elegant sets that let the character of each variety come through. You start to notice the differences in aroma, texture and finish, especially when moving between lighter and more oxidised teas. There’s an attention to detail in both the brewing, the setting and the refined service. Nothing feels rushed, and that’s very much the point. 

Sawanbondin Tea House. Muang, Chiang Rai. 9am-5pm

  • Chiang Rai

Kuma leans into a more contemporary expression of Chiang Rai’s ingredients, but without the rigidity of a formal tasting menu. Instead, the experience is built around a structured à la carte offering, with dishes grouped into cold, warm and main sections that encourage a more flexible way of ordering.

The menu reads like a conversation between local produce and modern technique. Ingredients are clearly doing the heavy lifting, but they’re handled with precision and a willingness to push into less familiar territory. You see that in combinations like smoked rice paddy eel with gooseberry jelly and crispy chicken skin, as well as a rich, perfectly cooked raw beef heart paired with Chiang Rai tomme, pea eggplant and fried acacia.

There’s a strong sense of play across the courses. Pumpkin mochi tempura sits alongside river prawn mousse stuffed into sesbania flowers, while a cup of dancing shrimp bisque brings in long pepper and wild almond milk. Even the mains carry that same balance of control and curiosity, from grilled catfish presented in multiple expressions to wagyu picanha with mustard green relish and umami-rich jus.

Kuma. Rop Wiang, Chiang Rai. 5pm-10pm, closed Monday-Tuesday

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Day 3 – A slow start and some craft shopping

  • Chiang Rai

A morning here feels like a step into Chiang Rai’s past. Si Biao Panich is one of the city’s oldest bakeries; dating back to the 1950s, it still operates with that same unpolished, deeply local rhythm. Order sheets are filled out by hand, drinks options are vast and familiar and the menu offers a mix of Thai, Chinese and old-school café staples. They even offer Turkish eggs with homemade yogurt. Try the kaya toast, soft buns and strong coffee alongside a banh mi or congee. They’ve got it all! 

What makes it special isn’t just the food, but the sense of continuity. The space is filled with small details and stories, from framed write-ups about the shop’s history to regulars who’ve clearly been coming here for years. Before you leave, make sure to pick up a few curry puffs to take on the road. They’re one of the bakery’s signatures and exactly the kind of thing you’ll wish you had more of later.

Si Biao Panich Bakery & Breakfast. Muang, Chiang Rai. 7:30am-1pm, closed Tuesday

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  • Shopping
  • Chiang Rai

Set within a calm, design-forward space, Studio Aborigi focuses on textiles that carry both cultural weight and everyday usability. The studio works closely with hill tribe communities across northern Thailand, sourcing traditional fabrics and techniques, then reinterpreting them into contemporary clothing, bags and home pieces.

What stands out is the refinement and balance. Nothing feels overly precious or costume-like. The cuts are clean, the palette is considered and the craftsmanship is allowed to speak without overstatement. You’ll find naturally dyed fabrics, handwoven details and subtle pattern work that reflects the origins of the materials and ties everything back to the region’s craft traditions in a way that feels current.

Studio Aborigi. Rop Wiang, Chiang Rai. 9am-5pm, closed Sunday

  • Health and beauty
  • Chiang Rai

Nalinthara Thai Massage

This spa oasis is set on a beautifully curated property with white colonial-style structures surrounded by shady, immaculate gardens, right alongside the Kok River. Inside, the rooms carry a sense of old-world charm, with carved wooden details and high ceilings. 

The real draw, though, is outside. The riverside terrace opens up to long views across the water, creating a setting that feels noticeably removed from the city. Timing matters here. Avoid the late afternoon and you can have your treatment outdoors, with the breeze gently moving across the river and onto your massage bed. 

Nalinthara Thai Massage. Rim Kok, Chiang Rai. 10am-9pm

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