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Revolution Brewing

As popular as Revolution has been in just its first month, you could wait up to an hour to get into one of its booths. Or you could do as I do and just...

Photograph: Martha Williams

As popular as Revolution has been in just its first month, you could wait up to an hour to get into one of its booths. Or you could do as I do and just hover around the bar, ready to snap up a stool as soon as someone else calls it a night. Start with a Bottom Up Belgian Wit and a bowl of the popcorn, elevated from average to awesome thanks to crispy sage, hunks of smoky bacon and a fistful of wispy Parmesan shavings. If you’re hungrier, move on to the Workingman burger: hefty, juicy and cooked to order, topped with a mountain of caramelized onions, cheddar and more of that bacon. (Drink it with a pint of the Workingman.) To finish with an equally strong pairing, there’s no better match on the menu than a goblet of the Willie with the beignets. The smoked malts in this Scottish-style “Wee Heavy” ale are ideal friends for the beignets, spiced like apple pie and served with a little cup of thick hot chocolate alongside for dipping. It’s a pairing good enough to make you forget about the long wait for a seat, the oftentimes ambivalent service and even the disappointing pizza, all factors that hopefully will improve with longevity—something Revolution will likely have plenty of. 2323 N Milwaukee Ave (773-227-2739).

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