Take the wallpaper at Three Aces—made up of semi-subtle drawings of naked women—as a sign that the owners don’t expect you to take the place especially seriously. Occupying the space that formerly belonged to the Little Italy outpost of Bar Louie, Three Aces fills the beer-and-grub niche that Louie left behind. But, wallpaper or no, they’re doing it with a little more class. Beers will be strictly domestic, with the 12 on tap coming from Midwestern breweries, and the food comes from Matt Troost, a chef who has become known for his delicious Italian food (despite the fact that he hasn’t worked at a restaurant in months). The owners insist the bites like pumpkin-and-pancetta soup and the braised chicken thigh are meant to be eaten as drinking snacks. But don’t be surprised to see people camping out here for dinner. 1321 W Taylor St, 312-243-1577.