Radisson Blue 1919

Reykjavik is having a moment. Perhaps too big a moment – once summer arrives, it becomes a bunfight to find a room in the city’s hotels, and the already high prices go stratospheric. That’s the bad news; the good is that this lovely hotel in a landmark 1919-built property is your workaround. Yes, it’s part of a chain, but don’t let that put you off. It’s midsized, mid-priced (for Reykjavik, anyway – it’s still expensive for the rest of Europe), and most importantly it’s full of character. Charming staff and a wonderful breakfast buffet mean that it’s an all-round excellent Icelandic bet.

Why stay at Radisson Blu 1919?

This city-centre all-rounder ticks all the boxes. Location? Check – it’s in the middle of the action, between the harbour from where whale-watching trips depart, and the historic centre. Value? Excellent, by Icelandic standards. When I stayed in August, it was the only four-star in Reykjavik that was approaching affordable prices. 

The building is a delight – the former headquarters of Eimskip, one of Iceland’s first shipping companies. Winding round a street corner – it’s a curved flat-iron building – its sinuous design was the work of Guðjón Samúelsson, the architect who transformed Reykjavik in the early 20th century (he was also behind the Hallgrímskirkja church, which dominates the city, as well as many other public buildings). The Eimskip building was originally dockside when it was built in 1919 – sloping cobbles outside mark the spot of the original waterline. Today, it’s a block from the modern neighbourhood that leads to the new waterfront, built on reclaimed land.

What are the rooms like at Radisson Blu 1919?

This is no behemoth chain hotel. The 88 rooms are scattered around the period property, meaning that you’ll find different sizes and configurations even in the same category (I had an issue with my room on check-in and was offered alternatives including a cute attic abode). You might find period details, too, like the huge windows (now double-glazed, of course) that flooded my junior suite with light, or pretty moulding on the high ceiling.

Whichever category you choose, the décor is the same: a rug slung over wooden floorboards, slightly loopy artwork (a raincoat-clad woman sitting on a swing in a cloud) over the super-comfortable bed, and a simple, tiled bathroom, with own-brand Radisson toiletries (the only time this feels like a chain hotel) and an image of one of Iceland’s famous waterfalls in the shower itself. As is usual in Iceland, the hot water is heated by the island’s thermal energy – I was warned that might make the shower smell a bit sulphurous but I didn’t notice anything. Roughly half the rooms have standalone showers; mine had a shower over a tub. If you have access needs, contact the hotel ahead of your stay. 

The only real difference as you go up the categories is the size of the room. My junior suite had a sofa and an egg-style chair, but style-wise it was the same as a smaller standard room. The entry-level category, called “individual rooms,” are on the top floor and have skylights rather than windows.

Which are the best restaurants and bars at Radisson Blu 1919?

The inhouse restaurant, Tivoli is under external management, which means it’s true restaurant-standard rather than boring hotel-restaurant standard. Wrapped round two sides of the building, with tables in window-side nooks perfect for people-watching outside, it’s a bistro. The menu is filled with modern dishes using fresh Icelandic ingredients, from crispy lamb confit served with blueberries to a cheeseburger with cod instead of beef. The restaurant was closed during my stay, but I can vouch for the breakfast – two rooms piled high with fresh produce, from cured arctic char to freshly baked bread. There’s even a big bottle of cod-liver oil on offer – do like the locals and down a spoonful with your breakfast to keep those joints working. There’s also a hipster coffee shop, Tivoli Café, on the other side of reception in the lobby.

What is the service like at Radisson Blu 1919?

If you’ve encountered impersonal, unbothered service at chain hotels in the past, this is a lovely surprise. The 24-hour reception staff are charming. They’re ready to go the extra mile, too – when I arrived after midnight and had a problem with my room, the guy on night duty sprinted upstairs to offer me a choice of rooms to move to, and threw in a free breakfast. 

What is the spa like at Radisson Blu 1919?

There’s no spa. There’s a small gym in the basement which is fairly basic when it comes to equipment but gets the job done – and it’s open 24 hours. 

What’s the area like around Radisson Blu 1919?

This is a brilliant all-rounder location, sandwiched between the harbour area (home to whale-watching tours and restaurants with a view) and the historical centre, which is dominated by the Hallgrímskirkja church and other buildings by Samúelsson. The Harpa Concert Hall is a few minutes’ walk away – the modern waterfront built on reclaimed land starts one block from the hotel. Most importantly, it’s in the flat part of town, which means you don’t necessarily have to navigate the rollercoaster hills, unless you’re actively heading up to the old town. 

Why you should you book a stay at Radisson Blu 1919

I’ll say it again: this really is is a great all-rounder. Reykjavik has swankier hotels – but you probably won’t be able to afford them. It also has more basic digs, which are cheaper, but in Iceland’s ever-changing weather, it’s nice to have a large, welcoming room to return to. While it’s a chain, and you get a flash of that in the rooms, the restaurant and friendly staff give it the feel of a boutique hotel. It’s Green Key-certified, too, and was one of the two first hotels in Iceland to achieve the certification.

DETAILS

Address: Pósthússtræti 2, Reykjavik, Iceland

Price per night: Rooms start from €200 per night

Closest transport: There’s a bus stop a couple of blocks away, but Reykjavik’s centre is walkable, and even buses from Keflavik airport will take you direct to the hotel. Many cruise companies have shuttles to the port at the Harpa Concert Hall, about five minutes away.