Head to Levinsky Market for your tehina fix
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This recently opened gem of Israeli and kosher home-cooking is helmed by Chef Yonatan Berrebi, who puts the normally humble staple of tehina at the forefront of his dishes. After graduating from the Cordon Bleu in Paris, Chef Berrebi went on to work at the famous Jules Verne Paris located at the Eiffel tower, before he decided to return to his beloved city of Tel Aviv. On his home turf, he ran kitchens from FauchonTLV to Liliyot, and more. Although studying classic French cuisine, Chef Berrebi was always more fascinated with simple food, spices, casual serving style and a general laid-back atmosphere. So it is not surprising that he fell in love with the Levinsky Market, where he opened HaTahinia.
© Natali Issahary
With the opening, his hope of walking out from behind the kitchen doors and creating a place where the cooking and preparation happen in front of his guests, creating a conversation between cook and guest, is already expected from his regulars. It is not uncommon to find Chef Berrebi preparing an off-the-menu dish for a guest.
At HaTahinia, patrons will find no tables, only a wide bar surrounding the place, with an open kitchen in the middle, above a neon sign that states ‘Be Joyous’ because the atmosphere is an integral part of the place (and that is also why it will probably only be a few moments from the time you sit down to the time you will be offered a shot of the house ouzo or Arak).
The menu changes almost weekly according to Yonatan’s muse. He wouldn’t know how to explain why he does what he does except to say that he goes by what feels right at that moment, dedicating dishes to the humble sesame paste, which is typically just a supporting ingredient, but shines at the forefront under Chef Berrebi's command.
HaTahinia, 33 Levinsky St, Tel Aviv. Sun – Thu, 12:00-16:00; Happy hour every day 18:00-20:00; Fri until 16:30, Sat closed