Recycle, reuse, renew. These key words and actions are staples of the spring season and apply to so many facets of our everyday lives. When it comes to fashion, vintage and second hand clothes have taken on a sort of quiet revolution in their own right – a way for consumers to forgo the mass production big box chains, while declaring their stance for fair trade, equal pay for migrant workers, and the list goes on. With a flip of the same coin, shopping second hand also allows fashion lovers a way to score coveted items of bygone eras. Winning all-round.
© Elie Bleier
Ariel Max Levy, 27
Outside Society
Why did you choose to open a second hand/vintage shop?
Even as a child, I was fascinated with London’s second hand charity shops. I used to look for football related memorabilia and just any thing that caught my eye. The raw idea was always there. As my attraction to fashion grew with time, finally in 2013, I went to London for my first business voyage. I knew nothing about fashion or business but the trip was a life changing experience. By sheer chance I came across the shop for rent one night. At the time I wasn’t living in Tel Aviv, had never thought about a shop and barely knew where I was. But I fell in love with the shop and the notion, and shortly and very naively thereafter signed the contract, and the rest is history. In a way, it chose me.
What is the most coveted item you have ever sold in your shop?
The most valuable is still in the shop now – an original Gianni Versace vintage dress from late 1980s I got from a local collector.
Not far behind is an original Chanel #5 bottle from the 1940s, which I found in a charity shop in north London.
Favorite place to shop outside of Israel?
There is no place quite like Paris for true, innovative couture. I always love strolling the endless charity shops in London, in that aspect Eastern Europe is just as fascinating. Lately I’m very much into the Korean and Japanese fashion scene.
Most inspiring designer?
The obvious are Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Lauren, whom completely revolutionized the way we see fashion today. More contemporary unique innovators I look to are Demma Gvasalia of Vetements, French designer Jacquemus, Jonathan Anderson of Loewe and J.W Anderson, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons.
If you weren’t doing this, what would you be doing?
I am also very interested in global trade, fascinated with the American financial culture of get rich or die trying. Generally speaking, I feel like a die hard entrepreneur and hope I always have the privilege to combine my passions.
Outside Society, 2 Barzilai St
© Elie Bleier
Avishai Pais, 35
Kassima
When did you open Kassima?
In July 2010. At first, the shop was combined with a café and for the last five years, I’ve focused on vintage clothing, especially authentic, vintage Israeli designs. Most of my items mainly come from Israel, and thanks to the melting pot of cultures here, there are a range of styles and eras.
Why did you choose to open a second hand/vintage shop?
The occupation and craftsmanship of vintage pieces, including the meticulous handiwork and perfect colors fascinate me. Since I can remember, I’ve always looked for vintage and thrifty options.
What is the most coveted item you have ever sold in your shop?
The most truly special item I’ve sold was a cotton gallabia by Rikma Ben Yosef, entirely made of red keffiyeh and at the front of the dress there was an Arab pattern of a cartoon.
Most inspiring designer?
I think Gottex beachwear, with its prints and colors makes it impossible to not be moved.
What’s a typical day at the shop?
Playing good music, several rounds of laundry, and perfecting an inspiring place for styling clients.
If you weren’t doing this, what would you be doing?
I know I am in the right field, and I have plans to integrate a coffee shop and lots of art, but if I really had to choose something else it would be interior design or fishing.
What is your most treasured find?
There are several items that I do not agree to sell, and it is not question of money; they are simply too beautiful.
How do you think shopping vintage/second hand has changed and/or effected the fashion scene?
They will always be popular because the biggest designers always come back for inspiration. Those who really understand quality and style always come back to visit.
Kassima, 23 Nahalat Binyamin St
© Elie Bleier
Orna Shaul, 54
Vanity
Why did you choose to open a second hand/vintage shop?
I opened Vanity exactly seven years ago, but a year earlier it was in my home. I have been managing the boutique for eight years now.
Why did you choose vintage?
I will begin with a sentence I particularly like that Philip Chesterfield said: "Style is the dress of thought." Since I remember myself, as a child, as a girl, as a woman, I always thought about my clothes, I always looked for uniqueness, I always had my style that is only mine. As a girl, I asked my mother to hem, change buttons, add details to every garment she dressed me in, and I would search the flea market for special white shirts for jeans and overalls. I find the unique character in vintage clothing, which relates to every detail and fabric. Each garment has the style and fragrance of its time, a piece of the past that contains memories and moments. I love the excitement that takes over me when I find beautiful, inspiring items. I wanted to share this excitement with other women, so I opened Vanity.
What is the most coveted item you have ever sold in your shop?
A Hermes vintage bag that belonged to a French woman of Moroccan origin who had connections with the king of Morocco, from whom I purchased many items for the boutique; a classic pink, wool Chanel jacket that came to me from Paris; and a 50-year-old dress sewn for someone by a private tailor of which I have no words to describe the beauty of the fabric, the richness of color and all the little details added to it, which I acquired in Italy.
Favorite place to shop?
My favorite place where I mainly do my buying is Italy. As far as I'm concerned, when I see a tag that says MADE IN ITALY, it means everything. The vintage from Italy is very colorful, full of prints and shapes, big flowers they call fantasy, natural fabrics of silk, wool and cashmere. Paris is also a love, but it is more restrained and classic.
Most inspiring designer?
Manolo Blahnik. His total love, his virtuosity, free thought, intense color, and, of course, boldness. His shoes are a jewel in every respect.
What do you like most about your work?
I like to stir, beautify and empower women to achieve their most impressive presence. In addition, the collection of items from the past inspires my imagination, intrigues me, and expands my horizons.
If you weren’t doing this, what would you be doing?
Before Vanity, I taught dance and movement to young children. Dance is my love and I might come back to it, but from another direction – combining my passion for fashion with dance. Maybe shopping for dance clothes for all styles of ballet, jazz, ballroom, tango, flamenco and more.
How do you think shopping vintage/second hand has changed and/or effected the fashion scene?
Vintage has preserved lifestyles that reflect lifetimes. And while people need to hold on to memories of the past, clothing is certainly one of the aesthetic forms of doing so. Only when buying vintage pieces can people find unique items that no one else has, as well as flaunt quality, designer items at sane prices. I have a lot of well-heeled customers who can buy at any designer store, but they choose to look for unique vintage items. And I have customers who understand fashion and have no money and they also benefit.
Vanity, 51 Geula St
© Elie Bleier
Ophira Oberweger, 42
Aderet
Why did you choose to open a second hand/vintage shop?
I opened Aderet in 2004 because it has always been my passion; since I was teenager I used to buy mainly second hand and vintage clothing.
Describe a typical day at work.
I start the morning with organizing, checking what has been sold and what needs to be added. Almost every day we change the location and display of the items, and every day I put out at least 30 new items. Almost every day I buy stuff from people so I get to browse through an average of 50-100 kilos of clothing and accessories daily. Even though only 20% of it stays, it needs to be sent to the laundry and get priced upon its return, so the main part of my day revolves around that. And of course selling the clothes, talking about them, about life, about fashion about recycling and about whatever the wind blows into the store.
What is the most coveted item you have ever sold in your shop?
Vintage Israeli items from brands like ATA and Maskit have always been and will always be the most desired local brands, but mainly for collectors. Denim holds the crown as the most wanted item for the longest period of time. All that comes from regular customers who sell their stuff.
Favorite place to shop?
Bangkok – which is heaven for second hand lovers; especially the night market and Wang Lang Market. In Berlin – the flea market in Mauer Park, Paul’s boutique and Goo in Prenzlauer Berg.
Most inspiring designer?
Gucci!
What do you love the most about your job?
Everything! I get to see new stuff every day and I get to pour everything I like to do into my work.
If you weren’t doing this, what would you be doing?
Photography.
What is your most treasured find?
Italian silver net leather shoes that have the perfect combination of uniqueness, beauty, and comfort. I can’t let go of them even though they are about to fall apart because I’ve been wearing them for almost 8 years.
How do you think shopping vintage/second hand has changed the scene?
I think it has changed everything and only for the good. Awareness of how the fashion industry works and the fact that people understand that we need to recycle more and buy less new thing. It is changing the attitude of big fashion chains that come out with green initiatives. For example, bringing used items to recycle and getting store credit at H&M or small collections made out of recycled cotton, and so on. It’s only the beginning. From the style aspect, I feel that people that buy second hand and vintage are open to unique and individual combinations rather than buying fashionable items that make them look like everyone else, and this trend is rising from the streets into high fashion, for example, the last Gucci collections that combine numerous styles, or other fashion houses that put out collections that look completely vintage, or even brands like Levi’s and Wrangler that reproduce lines from 70 years ago.
Aderet, 53 Bograshov St