Shuk bites: the key faces behind Tel Aviv's markets

Written by
Rachel Myerson
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The shuk is one of the most quintessentially Israeli spots; people shout, scream, push, and try to shove as many free tasters into their mouths as possible. It may surprise you to know that many of the vendors are not native sabras, but came to Israel from far-away lands. We chat with some of the key faces in Tel Aviv’s Carmel and Levinsky markets to learn how their past inspires their present.

 

Tal & Tammy

What? Venezuelan fare

Where? Arepa’s, Carmel Market

From? Venezuela

© Elie Bleier

If you haven’t already been drawn into this buzzing basta, smack-dab in the middle of the Carmel Market, you’ve been missing out. And while you may have fallen in love with the food — fluffy on the inside, crunchy on the outside arepas, aka, the Venezuelan pita — you may not know that this stall began with its very own love story. When Tal saw Tammy at a party, he thought she was the “most beautiful person in the room.” It wasn’t long until he fell in love with her culture, too, and the pair set out to share Venezuelan street food with Tel Aviv. Arepa’s is not only for the locals, but a haven for those who emigrated from Latin America, and yearn for the food of their childhoods. Tammy prepares most of the dishes, including daily specials and delectable frijoles (refried beans) in her own kitchen, then Tal mans the shuk-stall. And just how is it to work in the shuk? “Have you ever been in a hurricane?! When I leave for the day, I realize how calm and peaceful the outside world is!” he says.

Come for: authentic Venezuelan goodies with produce plucked straight from the market

Stay for: the tunes — these guys know the next “Despacito” waaay before Bieber

Rachamim

What? Freshly squeezed juices and vegan malabi

Where? Levinsky Market

From? Iran

© Elie Bleier

Rachamim is the sweetest, most gentle, smartly-moustached man that you ever did see. You’ll find him in his juice stall, pottering away squeezing fruits, or heating coconut milk for malabi on his camping-style stove. 

Rachamim came to the Holy Land from Iran, half on foot and half on a donkey. He arrived in Israel when the State was first founded, and fought in many of Israel’s early wars. He’s experienced more than his fair share of hardships along the way, but approaches life with a “the show must go on” attitude. 

Although Rachamim worked in the Levinsky market for many years, starting out helping his father with a fabric store, he only opened his stall six years ago. Does he like working in the market? “Sure,” he shrugs, “work is work! We are like cats, when we fall, we land on our feet and keep going! But I’m joking with the other vendors all the time.”

Come for:  The creamiest malabi in town

Stay for: Rachamim’s superior fruit knowledge and wondrous stories

Irit

What? Yemenite goodies

Where? Carmel Market

From? Israel

 

© Elie Bleier

Irit is the life of the party, and her place hosts the best party in town — if you know where to find it. Hidden away at a far corner of the Carmel Market, marked only by a blue door, Irit offers a taste of homemade, Yemenite grub, with the BeeJees crooning in the background and her screeching voice greeting a motley crew of friends and neighbors throughout the day. While she was born in Israel, she was raised in a traditional Yemenite household, and continues sharing the traditions today. Her father settled in Kerem Hataimanim in the 1930’s after arriving on the Magic Carpet operation, and Irit still lives in the house she grew up in, with her “cafe” next door. Her lahuh, a pancake-like bread, is fried on both sides until crisp, stuffed with an omelette, then served with tomato salsa and super-spicy zhug. Her secret ingredient? “Love!”

Come for: Yemenite comfort food at its finest

Stay for: the vibes, and Irit’s enthusiastic, yet tragically off-point matchmaking skills

 

Linda

What? Halva, baklava, tahini

Where? Levinsky Market

From? Iraq

 

© Elie Bleier

Linda is an adorable woman who loves a good chat, and waltzes through life at a self-determined, leisurely pace. While she may appear frail, don’t let her looks deceive you, this is one serious businesswoman who turned a failing shop into a well-known halva haven. Linda flew over from Iraq with her family when she was only a baby. For years, they lived in tents throughout the country, slowly working their way towards success. Married at sixteen, Linda was a housewife for many years, until her husband and son assigned her the job of manning their (previously unsuccessful) baklava stall in the Levinsky Market. It was Linda who introduced different tahinis and halvas to their offering (a seriously impressive selection), and who encouraged her son to begin his own halva business, and grind the sesame seeds by hand instead of using a machine. Now, he supplies his product to businesses all over the country.

Come for: the freshest, most melt-in-your-mouth halva in Israel

Stay for: all the other goodies on display — black tahini, we’re looking at you

 

Sissi & Marco

What? Gelato

Where? Arte, just outside the Carmel Market

From? Italy

© Elie Bleier

Sissi and Marco are amongst the most passionate people you’ll ever meet. The pair traveled the world as professional divers, living in Egypt, Thailand, Myanmar, Indonesia and Mozambique, until “we became physically exhausted and wanted to return to land.” Inspired by friends who owned a gelateria in Bali, they returned to Italy to study the art of gelato, and to Sicily to learn about granita. They opened their boutique gelateria, Arte, in Tel Aviv, to be close to Sissi’s family. In two short years, it has earned a solid rep as the most authentic ice cream in the city. As a proud shuk-side business, all their fresh produce comes from the neighboring Carmel Market, and their nuts are sourced from the Levinsky Market, just down the road. “The markets are the soul of Tel Aviv, and we have a better selection of raw ingredients because everything is so fresh.” They’re always working on new flavors inspired by holidays and the seasons, and they literally make everything from scratch – from crumble to coulis.

Come for: a taste of Italy with a Tel Aviv twist

Stay for: original flavors like caramelized white chocolate and mint; fig and lavender

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