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A new-school gem in an old school location, La Serena brings the beachy Italian resort of Forte dei Marmi bang up to date. The 20-room La Serena opened in July 2023, and does the chic and artsy boutique hotel thing extremely well. It’s somewhat removed from the main hustle and bustle of Forte, but don’t think of this as a negative. La Serena might not have a beachside view or immediate access to sand, but it has something else – it’s own little world, and it feels much more contemporary than some of the rather more Soviet-looking hotels nearer the beach.
Why stay at La Serena?
This seaside Tuscan spot is only open during spring and summer or from the middle of April until the end of September. We arrive right towards the end of the season, and find a super peaceful and still marvellously warm and sunny escape at our disposal. In fact, it feels like we have the entire place to ourselves, and it’s hard to decide who has the better room, me or my friend - her side of the hotel looks over the stunning Tuscan mountains, and mine is in the direction of the sea, via the majestic umbrella pine trees in the hotel’s stylish garden. No view is subpar. The modern landscaped garden feels like an open air art gallery, and everything is tasteful without being overblown or gaudy. There’s also a pool table just off the main lobby, making the place feel like a terribly chic youth club. Also check out the atrium room where local artists’ work is displayed on easels, while the corridor walls are covered in tasteful artworks, as are the rooms.
What are the rooms like at La Serena?
Colourful and busy but not overwhelming, rooms at La Serena are classily done. There’s a slight coastal energy in ours, with rattan floors, and shades of sage green and dusty blue in the fabrics and on the walls, with light pine wardrobes and fixtures. In mine are books (both arty, coffee table tomes on Tuscany and Forte Dei Marmi, as well as more useful guide books and local novels), as well as a balcony overlooking the pool and art-filled garden area, as well as an Ily coffee machine, and complementary jars of pistachios, gummy bears and tarallini – all of which are scoffed graciously.
Bathrooms are decked out with white marble from the nearby world-famous Carrara mines (this is the same stuff Michelangelo’s David is hewn from), and come stacked with all mod cons; from a top of the range Dyson hairdryer to a Japaneses-style toilet. There’s Marvis toothpaste and mouthwash, as well as L'Occatine toiletries. Turndown service is luxe but contemporary, with a L’Occatine eyemask, earplugs, pillow spray and handcream, as well as the all-important chocolate. Fitness fans will be happy to find a yoga mat and foam roller in the wardrobe, as well as a Theragun for massage. Room keys come as part of a wooden beaded wristband, but if you’re not into making such a bold sartorial statement, a normal keycard is also provided.
What is the food like at La Serena?
The epic buffet breakfast – which is included as part of the room rate – runs pleasingly late, kicking off at 7.30am and finally packing away at 1pm. Ideal if you want a lie-in, and don’t want to panic about missing your Italian cappuccino fix. It’s relaxed, just like the rest of La Serena, with fresh fruit, yogurt, local honey, breads, cheeses, cakes and fresh juices and juice shots all up for grabs. This comes on top of a menu of eggs to order and other brunch-style dishes, including a tomato-packed Tuscan egg dish. You can eat outside (but do remember the bug spray, those Tuscan mosquitoes don’t mess about), as well as in the restaurant which turns into a classy dinner spot later on, featuring a clam pasta so good that we almost saw the face of God. We washed it down with a great local Chianti, but there are hundreds of other options from their packed wine cellar.
What is the service like at La Serena?
Run by a small dedicated team, there’s a friendly concierge to help with local bookings and excursions. There are also small touches we haven’t ever come across elsewhere that make the place feel truly unique: a complimentary 20 minute massage is included in your stay, and you’re invited to pick your own bouquet of flowers from the lobby.
What is the pool and gym like at La Serena?
The seawater pool is lovely, surrounded by bean-bag style loungers and sunshades, while the garden has so many places to sit it’s a bit like you’re in an Ikea showroom, with swings, sofas, and seats scattered around the small but charming space, alongside large outdoor sculptures. For workouts there’s an outdoor gym and the hotel has bikes – both electric and normal – for you to cycle off the property and into Forte Dei Marmi, which is a couple of kilometres away by cycle path.
What’s the area like around La Serena?
La Serena is situated on quiet, residential streets away from the main town of Forte Dei Marmi, which lends it a truly peaceful vibe. If you want to check out the beach, it’s just a 500 metre walk away to the shore, but you’ll need to access it via one of the many beach clubs on the coast. The main public beach – aka a free access beach – in Forte dei Marmi is called Le Dune and that’s a 15-minute walk from the hotel.
DETAILS
Address: Via Matteo Civitali, 51, 55042 Forte dei Marmi LU, Italy
Price: 252 EUR per night, with breakfast included
Closest transport: Pisa airport is a 40-minute drive away, Florence, a 2-hour drive.