For too long, the ultimate Big Five experience meant a costly flight or an epic drive to the Kruger National Park. But I recently discovered a world-class, family-friendly Big Five escape that is just a short three-hour drive from Johannesburg, nestled in the gorgeous Waterberg, and it genuinely challenges Mpumalanga's best.
Qwabi Private Game Reserve is an 11,000-hectare gem that is unique for several reasons. Firstly, it is located in the Waterberg, one of only two UNESCO-declared savannah biospheres in Africa. This crucial conservation area in the Limpopo Province is known for its rich biodiversity, mountainous terrain, and ancient San rock art, making the scenery alone worth the trip.
The second and perhaps most critical reason is Letamo Lodge. Specifically designed for families, Letamo offers a range of child-friendly amenities and, crucially, a safari guide team whose expertise and patience are truly astounding.
Seamless welcome in the Waterberg
We arrived at Letamo on a grey Friday afternoon, anxious after a treacherous detour on a dirt road. But the instant welcome from Jeremy, Prince, April, and the rest of the team instantly put our family at ease. With welcome drinks in hand, we settled into the sunken seating area in the reception. A roaming warthog marking its territory a short distance away was the perfect theatrical cue for the fascinating adventure ahead for our little ones.
Letamo features 58 spacious rooms, including Standard, Deluxe, and Premium Rooms, as well as Suites and Luxury Suites. We settled into our interleading family rooms (Impala 9 & 10). Decorated in an elegant "afri-chic" style, our space offered the usual bush luxury (a king-sized bed, an en-suite with indoor and outdoor showers) plus twin beds and a camp cot for the kids. It was clear that these inter-leading rooms were perfectly set up for families with sprightly young children.
Junior conservationists headquarters
For any parent, the true measure of a family lodge is the children's programme, and Qwabi delivers flawlessly. Dubbed the "Junior Conservationists Headquarters", this dedicated building is equipped with everything a kid needs: art supplies, puzzles, a pool table, a PS5, and table soccer. Best of all, there is a structured daily schedule of activities, ensuring the kids have something exciting to look forward to beyond the game drive. Outdoors, they have a paddle court, a jungle gym, a trampoline, and a swimming pool.
Meal times are equally joyous (even for picky eaters). From snack platters and tea-time treats to generous buffet feasts, there is something for every taste. The boma dinner was a highlight for our family; some of us enjoyed everything from the oxtail potjie to the grilled venison, while the little ones focused on the cauliflower soup, desserts, and, hilariously, playing in the surrounding sand. Something for everyone, indeed.
The safari guide: A masterclass in patience
After a sleepless night of worrying about managing a 5-year-old and a 1-year-old on a Big Five safari, we met our designated guide, April. Any parent will tell you that a guide's patience is the key to a family safari, and April exceeded all expectations. His immense love and knowledge of the bush are inspiring, but his ability to connect with and translate this passion to four little girls under the age of seven was simply astounding. He managed to meet all of us in the middle, making the overall experience enjoyable and educational for everyone.
During our drive, we encountered a variety of animals, including hippos, giraffes, wildebeest, zebras, eland, nyala, and black-backed jackals, among others. Even the reserve's solitary crocodile made an appearance, but the unforgettable highlight was an incredibly close, heart-stopping encounter with a herd of elephants determined to assert their dominance. April navigated us safely and calmly through the high-stress moment, a true testament to his dual expertise with both wild animals and excitable children. While we missed the leopard, a subsequent close sighting of a precious Big Five member during our drinks break more than compensated.
This 11,000-hectare reserve, with its stunning landscape, abundant animal sightings, and even an adults-only lodge option, can easily hold its own against Mpumalanga's best, and it's thankfully located right on Johannesburg's doorstep. Qwabi Private Game Reserve is, without a doubt, a must-visit for the Joburg family seeking luxury, convenience, and conservation.
Time Out Tip: Depending on the time of year and lodge occupancy, you can often get a room upgrade for free, so don't hesitate to ask. Also, in case you missed it, ask for April to be your family's safari guide!
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