On the last Sunday of every month, just as Joburg’s early light hits the ridges, a group of hikers gather at the edge of Melville Koppies. Some are regulars who treat it as a monthly ritual, others are first-timers who’ve finally been persuaded to see what all the fuss is about. But by the end of the 8km guided hike, everyone is part of the same dusty, exhilarated tribe.
“It gives people the chance to slow down time,” says long-time volunteer Jenny Grice. She’s part of the team that leads these much-loved walks, which take hikers straight up to the top of the Koppies before meandering into Melville Koppies East. The inclines are gentle but deceptive, the paths are rocky, and the views, well, the views are the kind you don’t expect to find in the middle of a city. Grasslands ripple into rocky ridges and riverine forest, and at every turn, Joburg’s skyline surprises you from both north and south.
The guided hike (next one: 30 November) offers something rare in the city: the chance to walk far, safely, and without worrying about taking a wrong turn. If the full 8km feels daunting, you can duck out halfway, no judgment, just fresh air and freedom.
But Melville Koppies is more than a monthly endurance fix. It’s a sanctuary, a nature reserve tucked quietly into the urban jungle, and one of Joburg’s most astonishing open secrets. “You don’t have to live in Joburg for 30 years before visiting,” Jenny says. And you should, because the land itself tells stories older than imagination.
Here, Joburg was once seaside. Here, hominins lived hundreds of thousands of years ago. Here, the city’s first farmers smelted metal, and the Geldenhuys family searched (unsuccessfully, and luckily) for gold. Every rock and ridge holds a piece of the city’s deep-time history.
If you want the full download, you can book a guided tour or wander on your own any Sunday morning between 8 am and 11:30 am. Bring the kids, bring your binoculars, bring your need for quiet; there are views, birds, and pockets of stillness at every turn.
And if you have children, don’t miss the final Storytelling Sunday of the year, happening on 14 December. Librarian Merle Grace is the kind of storyteller who can captivate ages “1 to 101”, as Jenny puts it. This month, she’ll transport families through two tales: Gcina Mhlophe’s "Crocodile and the Monkey’s Heart" and "The Healing Snake" from the Nelson Mandela Stories Collection, told as if around an ancient fire, with the hush of the veld settling around the audience.
Running a nature reserve in the heart of Joburg takes immense work, and the Melville Koppies team, supported by City Parks and a handful of dedicated conservation workers, relies entirely on entrance fees and donations.
Every rand goes back into maintaining trails, preventing erosion, clearing alien species, burning firebreaks, and keeping the Koppies pristine for all who wander its paths. If you want to help, volunteers are always needed: from guiding school groups to manning the Sunday reception hut.
So why is this space so vital right now? “Life is busy, issues can be overwhelming,” Jenny says. “The Koppies are an urban sanctuary.”
With the final guided hike of the year around the corner, she’s looking forward to greeting the familiar faces and welcoming the new ones.
And if she had to describe the spirit of Melville Koppies in a single word?
“Joy.”
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