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In what must be exciting news for for El Puchero, red gingham is making a comeback after 30 years in the cold. Here it had never gone away – in the form of tablecloths, cushions, lampshades and curtains. Almost unchanged too is the range of tasty country classics – from 'civet de liebre' (hare stew) to 'criadillas' (don't ask) – and some excellent seafood. It's a good idea to reserve a table at lunchtime, when the matronly waitresses are rushed off their feet with the demands of local office workers.