Carlos Monsiváis y Juan García Ponce. Vasos comunicantes en el arte y la literatura
Foto: Cortesía Museo del Estanquillo
Foto: Cortesía Museo del Estanquillo

Carlos Monsiváis and Portales: the neighborhood that shaped the chronicler of Mexico City

From his home in San Simón to the market, Monsiváis turned Portales into a hub of critical observation, popular culture, and urban affection.

Ángel Arroyo
Advertising

Carlos Monsiváis is an indispensable figure for understanding the intellectual and popular soul of Mexico City, and his roots in the Portales neighborhood are a living example of this. Since arriving with his family as a child, after leaving the La Merced neighborhood, he never left his home on San Simón Street. He lived there his entire life, surrounded by cats and books, observing the daily life of the neighborhood from his window, a neighborhood that shaped his thinking.

Portales was not only his home, it was also a constant source of inspiration and critical observation, and a space of emotional and political resistance. From there, he wrote about cinema, social movements, popular culture, sexual and religious minorities, all with a unique clarity and acid humor that made him an indispensable voice in contemporary Mexico. Monsiváis retained a strong sense of belonging to this working-class neighborhood, steeped in popular culture, local commerce, and community life. All this while building one of the largest personal libraries in the country, now housed in the Biblioteca de México in the Ciudadela.

Neighbors and friends still remember him as “Monsi,” a discreet but deeply loved figure. After his death in 2010, his house was filled with posters bearing farewell messages, testimony to the affection the community had for him. Today, the Colonia Portales honors his memory as one of its most illustrious inhabitants, not only for his work, but also for his way of living in the city.

We have chosen three places that we believe powerfully mark his stay in La Portales.

You should read: Discover the Portales Neighborhood Through This Community Project

Monsi's emblematic places in La Portales

Casa de San Simón 62

Residence of Monsiváis and his family. There he accumulated some 24,000 books, magazines, and objects, along with his cats. From his windows he watched the life of the neighborhood, and after his death, the neighbors placed condolence posters on the facade.

Did you know that the names of his cats are also very iconic? Some of our favorites are: Recóndita Armonía (Hidden Harmony), Monja Beligerante (Belligerent Nun), Ansia de Militancia (Desire for Militancy), Fetiche de Peluche (Stuffed Animal Fetish), Fray Gatolomé de las Bardas (Friar Gatolomé of the Walls), Miau Tse Tung (Meow Tse Tung), Miss Antropía (Miss Anthropia), Catzinger, Peligro para México (Danger to Mexico), and Copelas o Maullas (Copelas or Meows). Jokes that are much better understood in Spanish.

Mercado Portales

This market was very close to his home. Monsiváis visited it frequently to buy not only used books and knickknacks. He was “a frequent visitor to markets (especially the one in Portales),” according to contemporary accounts.

Advertising

PILARES Carlos Monsiváis

There are no famous literary cafés linked to him in the neighborhood, but the local enthusiasm for culture is evident: for example, the mural PILARES Carlos Monsiváis (unveiled in 2023) is located in Portales Sur.

Recommended
    You may also like
    You may also like
    Advertising