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Il Mulino has been a staple at Acqualina since 2006, and after a full renovation this winter, the Sunny Isles dining room finally looks as good as the food has always tasted. Mint-green pendant lamps, vintage glassware, servers in white jackets with orange bow ties: it's old-school Italian-American glamour through a modern lens.
The menu splits between classics that have been on for decades and a seasonal section that rotates every three months. Order from both for the full experience. Meals start with complimentary bites of cheese and bread before you've touched the menu, and appetizers come pre-split for the table, a small gesture in service that goes a long way. The ravioli ai porcini in champagne truffle cream is what this restaurant is known for, and 20 years in, one bite explains why.
The linguine alle vongole has actual heat in it, which catches you off guard in the best way. The salt-crusted branzino arrives whole and gets carved tableside. Desserts also get the tableside treatment. Save room for the watermelon grappa at the end. You'll want it.
The vibe: Waterfront fine dining that takes the food and atmosphere seriously, but not itself.
The food: Italian classics with real staying power, plus seasonal dishes worth trying.
The drink: Icy martinis to start. End with the watermelon grappa. Trust.
Time Out tip: Get the branzino and let them carve it. The table next to you will wish they had.