Kiki on the River

A lot has changed since Kiki on the River opened, and somehow, also nothing has. The Miami River setting is still one of the city's better waterfront spots, Greek flags now line the docking area, the music is loud and omnipresent, the lighting is dark, and on a recent visit, a woman at a nearby table on the patio smoked cigarettes for most of the meal. It felt like Miami circa 2004, which you'll either find charming or exhausting depending on your tolerance for that kind of thing.

The food holds up better than the vibe might suggest. The pikilia platter of hummus, tzatziki, taramosalata, and htipiti is a solid start, the grilled octopus is reliable, and the Greek salad is exactly what it should be. The real surprise is the salt-crusted lavraki, which arrives tableside with fire and a proper carving and turns out to be some of the better fish in Miami right now. Worth ordering.

The cocktail list is long and leans into the scene. The Kiki Martini with Greek pepper-infused vodka and lemon olive oil is worth trying at least once.

The vibe: Greek taverna energy cranked up to a Miami 11. 

The food: Mezze that covers the bases and a whole fish that actually delivers. 

The drink: Order the Kiki Martini and see where the night goes.

Time Out tip: Get the salt-crusted lavraki. Everything else is a warm-up.