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Review
Miami already has its share of fancy steakhouses, but until recently, none had Christoph Niemann murals. Slim's, Stephen Starr's latest, opened in the former Makoto space at Bal Harbour Shops with a 1930s-inspired room with checkered marble floors, leather banquettes, brass fixtures, and walls covered in art deco murals by the illustrator behind some of The New Yorker's most recognizable covers.
The vibe: Outdoor on the vast patio, Bal Harbour people-watching is very much intact. Inside, it’s a bit darker, moodier, with service polished enough to split your chopped wedge into two bowls before you ask.
The food: Start with the pigs in a blanket made with a kosher hot dog, puff pastry, deli mustard, and a perfect beginning of the meal. The crab-stuffed avocado is a good visual trick and a better dish: a half avocado packed with crab salad, pressed back together so it arrives looking whole. The $100 cheesesteak with shaved wagyu, black truffle, foie gras, fried onions, and American cheese on a sesame roll is the Starr signature that finally made its way to Miami. Order it for the table and split it. Every steak is decadent and well charred; the hardest part is choosing which cut to go with. The sides are also showstoppers. The stuffed hash brown could feed a small family, while the onion rings are enormous and thick-cut. For dessert, the pink champagne cake is the move, and the bananas Foster is a fun tableside production.
The drink: The martini list runs from subtly dirty to sweet-forward, and the wine-by-the-glass program is broader than most steakhouses.
Time Out tip: The $100 cheesesteak is meant to be shared. Give yourself extra time in the Bal Harbor Shops garage; construction means parking takes longer than it used to.
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