It’s pretty amazing to live in Belgium's second city. Antwerp is a charming, compact and dynamic metropolis filled with Michelin-starred restaurants, cosy pubs and wine bars, plus idyllic shopping streets featuring world-famous designers like Dries Van Noten and museums housing medieval and gothic masterpieces. For the last two decades, I've called the city home.
In this patch of northwestern Europe, Antwerp has always been somewhat in the shadow of cities like Amsterdam and Paris. But this year, the city seems to have really stepped into the spotlight. While most visitors will stick to the city centre, it’s neighbourhoods like Borgerhout where you’ll find real local flavour and some of the coolest places to eat, drink and shop.
A tight-knit local community
Borgerhout hasn’t always had the best reputation, with some locals pointing to crime and anti-social behaviour. The smallest of Antwerp’s districts, it was derisively called ‘Borgerokko’ (a combination of ‘Borgerhout’ and ‘Morocco’) because of a large population of immigrants from Arabic-speaking countries. In fact, around 140 nationalities live in the area, with inhabitants hailing from Mali and Pakistan to Canada and the US. Today, the neighbourhood’s multiculturalism is celebrated.
Borgerhout’s modern-day transformation is largely due to the efforts of local residents. Innovative projects like 'parklets' and culturally inclusive events – where residents from different backgrounds celebrate together – contribute to a strong sense of community.
A true cultural melting pot, in Borgerhout you’ll find almost everything from almost everywhere, ranging from grocers, butchers and international food shops to contemporary art galleries, stylish restaurants, intimate cafes and coffee bars. Despite its challenges in the past, the positive evolution of the neighbourhood is widely supported by both new and long-term residents.
Rein Adons is one of them, having opened the popular Café Mombasa on Moorkensplein 15 years ago. Her beer and bicycle café has since grown into a household name and an attraction drawing visitors from far beyond Borgerhout.
‘There’s a sense of community here you won't find in the city centre. Everyone knows each other. Many like-minded people live here and you can simply be yourself,’ Adons says. ‘Everyone contributes to that community spirit. I also love the spontaneous creativity and the immense potential for growth here. This creates a strong sense of belonging, which is genuine and authentic, not something conceived in an expensive planning office. As a result, people are proud to belong – proud to be a Borgerhoutenaar.’
I love the spontaneous creativity and potential for growth here
Alongside neighbourhood stalwarts, old-school shops and food spots, Borgerhout boasts some of Antwerp’s trendiest addresses. There’s a string of great galleries, including Base-Alpha and DMW. You can buy new-style sourdough bread at the beautiful Boulot Bakery or go for traditional Moroccan sweets at Bakkerij Roma, owned by Mohamed and Younes Boulakhrif.
Next door to the bakery, you'll find the beautiful concert venue with the same name: De Roma. It's the perfect place to see live music, often featuring international artists. Just a hop away is Falafel King, a neighbourhood staple. It might look like a typical kebab joint, but this inviting spot has gained a loyal following, keen to get their hands on the most delicious falafel in Antwerp.
A bit further on, the Handelstraat is full of small businesses like Royale Fish, a Moroccan fishmonger with an amazing assortment of seafood where even non-locals head for delicious sardines or fresh octopus.
BorGerHub, managed by Sarah Neirinckx, offers a unique shopping experience and represents the DIY spirit of the neighbourhood. It’s located in the beautiful building of the former Justice of the Peace Court (Vredegerecht), which has been remarkably transformed into a creative laboratory where artists, start-up entrepreneurs, and creative generalists can go to develop and sell their ideas and products. Here you can buy fairtrade products ranging from Kibibi jewellery from Uganda to Kantha jackets and throws from India.
In Borgerhout, there is a policy of live and let live
‘In Borgerhout, you can feel the city's pulse and the close-knit atmosphere of a small town,’ says Neirinckx. ‘It buzzes with creativity. Borgerhout feels alive and there is a policy of live and let live. The district leadership has a strong relationship with its residents, and you can feel the change. A good example is the lively squares, and the cute new places popping up everywhere.’
One of the building’s forty start-up entrepreneurs and creators is illustrator Gert Van Daele, who sells her illustrations at the hub. ‘I love living here,’ she says. ‘It's just like a village, but just cooler and with the benefits of a real city. I live on the lively Krugerplein and there's always a buzz there.’
According to Gert and many other locals, there are simply too many interesting places in the area to list. One name that crops up often is Bar Leon, another favorite neighbourhood café boasting a huge terrace on the Krugerplein, and Frituur Tina, which serves the best French (or better Belgian!) fries in Antwerp.
In the summer, a scoop from Borgo Gelato is essential, while Briquet – also with a big terrace, plus a wine bar and a small but creative vegetable-focused menu – is the new darling of Borgerhout. Antwerpians also love to head over here to buy blooms at the stunning Wilder, a flower shop owned by florist duo Marijke Boesmans and Mayken Craenen. Coup de Chocolat is a chocolate shop owned by Caroline Huyghe, who last year won big at the International Chocolate Awards and the World Chocolate Awards with her ‘bean to bar’ method of chocolate-making.
‘It made sense to have a studio near home,’ says Huyghe. ‘The vibe here is excellent, full of creative energy. The rent is still more affordable than downtown, and people genuinely take time to support one another, which is really wonderful to see.’
Read Time Out’s full list of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods here.
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