Seafood platter at l'Ecailler du Bistrot
A seafood platter is a ceremony. First it arrives, and you take a moment to size up the size of the task ahead. Then the battle can commence. Crack open, behead, break apart, scoop out, spread around. Normally you’d be doing this by the seaside, with salt and fresh air, but in Paris it’s another matter, and if you get it wrong it’s a disaster. But there’s nothing to worry about at l'Ecailler du Bistrot. The platter comes flanked with an unimpeachable basket of bread, butter and mayonnaise, all fresh and prettily presented, and at a reasonable price for Paris (€76 for two).