Cozinha da Amélia

This Campo Alegre restaurant's name could not be more descriptive: this is indeed Amélia's kitchen. She runs the place, and she runs it well, with delicacies such as the cod cakes (enough to make critic Alfredo Lacerda swoon) or the eight (yes, eight) varieties of cod dishes. If you're in the mood for meat, go for the tripe stew or the “mirandesa” beef steak.