This is what it's like to spend an entire night at Canter's Deli
An intrepid writer holes up at Fairfaxâs 87-year-old Canterâs Deli overnight.
When I opted to spend an entire night inside Fairfaxâs famous Canterâs Deli, I wasnât quite sure what to expect. After all, as Frank Lloyd Wright put it, âTip the world over on its side, and everything loose will land in Los Angelesââand the dinette has been slinging midnight latkes since 1931 to jetlagged tourists, teens pushing curfew, post-concert rock stars, industry heavyweights and every Angeleno in between. Who craves gefilte fish at four in the morning? How does the staff handle the long, dark night shift? And, most pressingly, when and how does a 24/7 restaurant get cleaned? I coaxed a night owl dining companion to join me and, over the course of seven hours, find out what itâs like overnight at Canterâs.
At 11pm on a Friday night, Canterâs is busy with millennial couples snapping photos of each othersâ onion rings, aging rocker types with leather jackets slung over the backs of their chairs and a demographic I dub âthe dad crowdââlovers of baseball caps and pastrami sandwiches, who arrive with families of four and donât need to look at the deliâs multi-page menu before ordering. A few dads come in pairs, ostensibly for late-night industry meetings. Over the course of the evening, I become more and more sure that Canterâs is the perfect place to write that screenplay youâve been putting off: itâs comfortable, steeped in L.A. culture and thus inspiring, and, Iâd soon learn, graveyard quiet a