Anna Sulan Masing

Bouchon Racine comes with history, baggage and devoted fans. Firstly, it is on the top floor of a 300-year-old pub in the heart of Farringdon. Secondly, it is run by stalwarts of the industry, with renowned reputations. It has a lot to live up to. Which is does; in fact, it’s hard not to wax lyrical.  Chef Henry Harris’s restaurant Racine, a French bistro in Knightsbridge, ran for 13 years, until 2015. A much-loved neighbourhood joint, it anchored itself in many a heart – west Londoners and beyond. But the neighbourhood changed and Harris decided to close. Since then he has been bringing French comfort to various pubs in and around London, before opening Bouchon Racine at the top of The Three Compasses at the end of 2022. With Harris in this venture is David Strauss, previously operations director for Goodman steak restaurants, which included, among over ventures, overseeing Beast restaurant in Mayfair. All this is to say that these two know London well and know restaurants even better, which is why I decided to go to Bouchon Racine accompanied by someone also in the industry and who is from Lyon.  The ‘head of veal’ was a delight – the only challenging part of this dish might be the name The menu is unashamedly French, with humble roots and an emphasis on hearty food. A ‘bouchon’ is a type of restaurant found in Lyon that historically catered to workers, and remains focused on the idea of relaxed conviviality, which captures Bouchon Racine perfectly. Bouchon Racine’s offeri