Camille Hine

In Tokyo, the best walks begin where the guidebooks stop. And few are the travel companions that mention the eastern ward of Katsushika where, thirty minutes apart on foot, lie two unassuming neighbourhoods: Kameari and Ayase. Kameari is best known as the backdrop to the long-running manga KochiKame: Tokyo Beat Cops, and these days the lines between suburb and storyboard have all but disappeared. But beyond the character statues scattered across the district is something more compelling: a lived-in shitamachi charm. From Kameari Station, follow the railway west along Pochi Kame, the 800-metre underpass that JR East has in the past few years quietly repurposed with new shops and hangout spots. This will bring you to Ayase, alive at night with izakaya and bustling in the day with residents running errands. Restaurant windows steam up so you can only see a warm blur of people chatting away, as chefs and waiters call out over the low rumble of the trains. Tucked away among the copy-paste chain shops that line many Tokyo streets, we’ve found six gems that make the stroll from Kameari to Ayase much more than just a commute.

Tokyo is a city where neon-lit skyscrapers rise beside ancient temples, and one where the art scene doesn’t just live inside major museums – it quietly spills into the voids in between. Inspired to channel creativity in new ways, art spaces have taken root in places often overlooked: under railway lines, inside former community buildings, along residential backstreets you’d otherwise pass without a second glance. Some are carefully renovated, others feel almost improvised. Together, they bring art closer to everyday life and local communities. For many visitors rushing between tourist hotspots, these spaces remain undiscovered, and not even all locals realise what’s right at their doorstep. But if you’re ready to pass on the monumental museums and check out the little galleries tucked into the corners of Tokyo, read on: here’s where to find some of the capital’s most unexpected art spaces, where personal stories live within the art and inspiration flows freely. RECOMMENDED: The best art exhibitions in Tokyo right now

Just two minutes on foot from the hustle and bustle of Ayase Station, hidden in the backstreets, sits Kawaraya Root. Set in a renovated 50-year-old kominka (traditional wooden farmhouse), this two-storey restaurant is designed to look like an old Japanese home, but with a modern bistro feel. Low-hanging lanterns cast a gentle glow onto dark timber walls and tatami seating. The restaurant’s name comes from kawara, the traditional roof tiles of Japanese houses. Combined with the English word ‘root’, the naming captures the idea of a neighbourhood bistro rooted in the community, a warm place where people gather over good food. This is neither straight-up washoku nor classic Italian: expect gourmet European-style bistro dishes with a Japanese twist, served on Japanese tableware. The menu draws on local produce and is changed monthly to keep things deliciously fresh. Don’t miss the tile-grilled cheese risotto with shrimp broth, best enjoyed with some Mucho Más de Félix Solís Avantis white wine or Cardamon Take7 White Snake shochu.

With an entrance fashioned from a 270-year-old temple gate and a central workshop built by a miyadaiku (temple carpenter), Allan West’s Art Sanctuary blends seamlessly into Yanaka’s shrine-dotted streets. What may surprise you is that it was never a temple, but a car repair shop, which West transformed into a studio dedicated to Nihonga. Each screen and scroll reflects the care and discipline behind the medium, making the studio feel less like a gallery and more like a sanctuary where one can enjoy the beauty of nature. Gold-leaf painting covers both the walls and the ceiling. As the pigments are so expensive, the world of Nihonga is lost to many in modern-day Japan. Protecting the heritage of this centuries-old practice and building upon its traditions, West brings together both his American and Japanese artistic foundations. If you’re lucky, you can even catch him at work, brush in hand.

Climb the stone steps into a green oasis to discover the studio-home of Junkichi Mukai (1901–1995). Built in the 1960s and incorporating elements brought from rural Iwate, the building feels like a fragment of old Japan that’s slipped into residential Setagaya. Born in Kyoto, Mukai grew up immersed in the natural environment and culture of the ancient capital. After studying in Kansai and Tokyo, he travelled to Paris in the late 1920s, where he learned Western techniques that later shaped his realist style. Yet he is best known as ‘Mukai of the old houses’, devoting over 40 years, well into his 80s, to travelling across Japan to paint its rapidly vanishing thatched-roof dwellings and seasonal rural landscapes.  This is a place where the past is lovingly remembered. First in the quaint wooden atelier itself, a preserved remnant of old Tokyo, and then again in the paintings it holds, which reveal just how quickly Japan’s landscape transforms.

The aroma of freshly roasted coffee spills out onto the street as you wander upon Iri, a café nestled beneath the elevated train lines near Ayase Station. In December 2025, Masae Kuboki’s longtime dream of opening a coffee house – and roasting beans in house – came to life in this compact, minimalist space. The coffee, brewed with beans imported from across Latin America, East Africa, Jamaica and Indonesia, is poured into rustic Mashiko ware mugs. Take a seat at one of the two tables or at the window counter, where you can watch the flow of everyday life over your steaming cup of joe.  For those who aren't so into coffee, try their creamy hot chocolate paired with one of three cheesecakes – Basque, New York-style or cassata – or maybe even all three to properly gorge yourself on sugar. For those who find themselves not wanting to part with Iri’s coffee, they have bundles of beans at the exit to buy on your way out.

If you’re tired of shopping for run-of-the-mill clothes online, go under the tracks by Ayase Station to discover Afro-Rake. You know you’ve arrived when you spot a huge mural of a ’70s-style character rocking a big afro, plastered over by a black-and-white hip-hop-esque poster of Christina Aguilera. With a gigantic head of hair – much like that in the mural – the shop’s Ayase-born-and-bred owner, Shingo Yamazaki, has been welcoming customers into his small black-walled secondhand shop since 2008. Afro-Rake holds a tightly packed treasure trove of apparel. Worn-in denim, vintage leather jackets and plaid flannels cram in, giving just enough space to move. For the women out there: don't be disappointed that it’s technically a men’s shop, and try some things on – you might find yourself putting together a fire fit before you know it.

As you stroll westward from Ayase Station at night, you may well start to hear music emanating out of a small bar under the railway lines. When you open the door, a rush of tunes blows out, and you’ll immediately hear people asking whether you fancy joining in – or would rather just have a drink and unwind. The clientele composed mostly of locals, everyone at this live music bar bundles in on little stools to watch the show. Surrounded by for-sale guitars and served by a friendly bartender from behind what until 1986 was a coffeeshop counter, your body picks up as the music beats to the rhythm of the trains. As the venue is tucked under the tracks with nothing but a bike rack next door, locals jam as loudly as they like. Posters remember musicians who have come and gone, making this place a small part of Ayase’s history. Anyone is welcome to perform: jazz, rock or something else – if it’s good, it belongs. Chess is open from 7pm to midnight every day, with gigs every Friday to Sunday. You can simply turn up empty-handed; they’ll lend you an instrument right off the wall.