Chess

As you stroll westward from Ayase Station at night, you may well start to hear music emanating out of a small bar under the railway lines. When you open the door, a rush of tunes blows out, and you’ll immediately hear people asking whether you fancy joining in – or would rather just have a drink and unwind.

The clientele composed mostly of locals, everyone at this live music bar bundles in on little stools to watch the show. Surrounded by for-sale guitars and served by a friendly bartender from behind what until 1986 was a coffeeshop counter, your body picks up as the music beats to the rhythm of the trains. As the venue is tucked under the tracks with nothing but a bike rack next door, locals jam as loudly as they like.

Posters remember musicians who have come and gone, making this place a small part of Ayase’s history. Anyone is welcome to perform: jazz, rock or something else – if it’s good, it belongs. Chess is open from 7pm to midnight every day, with gigs every Friday to Sunday. You can simply turn up empty-handed; they’ll lend you an instrument right off the wall.