Hayley Scott

There’s something happening in Edinburgh’s port district. If Leith wasn’t already shorthand for a new generation of Scottish cool, it has recently cemented its place as the capital’s go-to neighbourhood for foodies. Buzzy new openings seem to come about every other month, with recent additions including Barry Fish, a swish seafood restaurant right on the shore; Brown’s of Leith, a former engineering works converted into an industrial-chic high market food hall housing three of the capital’s most exciting food concepts, and Dogstar, which we’ve admittedly not got around to trying out yet. They’re all following in the footsteps of the likes of Heron and The Little Chartroom, championing exciting cooking with an emphasis on quality produce. All of which is to say that for a proper taste of Edinburgh’s current food scene, you could do a lot worse than eating your way around Leith – though don’t forget about the wealth of culinary excellence elsewhere in the city. Everything from sandwich spots and classic curry houses to old-school favourites and low-key wine bars make up this absolute beast of a list. For our January 2026 update, we’ve added Pomelo, the teeny-tiny Marchmont café serving up mind-blowing hand-pulled noodles, which has earned a place in our top five after a glowing five-star review. The aforementioned Brown’s is another new addition, coming in in our top 10 (forgive us for cheating, it’s essentially three restaurants in one). Other new additions include Margot, a

Hayley Scott: ‘I grew up in Edinburgh and I still can’t get enough. Years spent living elsewhere have made me increasingly appreciative of the city, but it’s hard to pin point exactly where its charm lies. There’s its small size, making it extremely walkable (provided you aren’t afraid of some rain and the occasional hill), and there’s its rich and well-preserved history, meaning parts of the city feel otherworldly, even to someone who calls it home. Growing up I would wander the botanic gardens feeding bread to the squirrels, and now I stroll the cobbled streets via wine bars, restaurants and – depending on the time of night – chippies. Ready to walk, drink, dance and all the rest of it? Get your waterproof on and explore.’ 📍 RECOMMENDED: Ultimate guide to what to do in Edinburgh ✈️ The best weekend breaks from London What free things are there to do in Edinburgh? Plenty. A number of our top museums have free entry year-round, including the National Museum of Scotland, the National Gallery, the Portrait Gallery and the Modern. But it’s not just galleries – some of Edinburgh’s most photogenic sites can be seen free of charge: stroll through the historic Dean Village along the Water of Leith walkway, totter down the cobbles of picture-perfect Victoria Street and take in the view of the city after clambering to the top of Arthur’s Seat. And there’s more: check out our guide to the best free things to do in Edinburgh.  🏨 Ready to book? Here’s our guide to where to stay in Edi

What’s the vibe?  Vinette is the chic new opening from Stuart Ralston, the chef behind Noto, Tipo, Lyla and previously Aizle. On chic Broughton Street, the calm and cool Vinette feels a million miles away from the bustling city centre a block or two away – chic, elegant, but not at all stuffy.  Welcoming too are the prices, which offer a choice between a very reasonable à la carte and an incredibly good value lunch set menu. Is Edinburgh trying to cement itself as the best place for a set menu french bistro style lunch outside of France? Perhaps so. Granted I can only name four restaurants serving this style of menu offering a set lunch menu, but given the relatively small size of Edinburgh it feels significant. Vive la France, Vive la Vinette! What should I order?  The competition for french bistro style steak frites is fairly fierce in Edinburgh and the Flat Iron at Vinette is a decent new addition to the roster. Crispy fries and lean steak cooked to perfection, plated up alongside a generously sized ramekin of choron sauce, a lightly tomato-ey bernaise. The cod schnitzel is perfectly crispy and comes with a zingy tartare sauce. But the best thing on the menu? That’s the burger. It was recommended to us and we were genuinely blown away. IMHHO (in my humble hamburger opinion) it is the best burger in Edinburgh.  Starters-wise, the duck hearts are a traditional and delicious option. We got stuck into some smoked trout rillette which came with cucumber and toasted sourdough an

Opened in 2019 as an offshoot of Aizle, chef Stuart Ralston’s first Edinburgh restaurant, Noto has more than cemented itself as its own culinary achievement. Its selection of sharing dishes are, bite-for-bite, some of the most delicious things you’ll find in Edinburgh right now.  Behind a small, unassuming door on Thistle Street, a cobbled side street in Edinburgh’s New Town, Noto welcomes you with a sleek bar counter, behind which beautiful bespoke cocktails are being shaken, stirred and served. You’ll be greeted at the door and – unless you’ve luckily landed yourself a bar seat for a front row view of the mixology masterclass – led through to the airy, calm dining room. (There is also an option to pre-order a glass of fizz for arrival when you reserve a table, which is a very nice touch.) There is an overwhelming feeling of ease in Noto, which is no doubt a testament to how well the team works together. The whole restaurant feels smooth and serene, even with every table full. Each member of the team that visited our table went out of their way to help and had a wealth of knowledge about each dish and every drink on the menu which they were more than happy to share. Not at all overbearing, we were left to savour every plate. It’s beautifully orchestrated hospitality.  To drink, Noto has a fantastic wine list and a small but well-considered selection of beers, including Pilot, a Leith brewery boasting exceptional tasting beers. For anyone looking to try something a little di

You’ll find Ardfern tucked round a corner off Great Junction Street, the newest opening from Roberta Hall-McCarron and the team behind The Little Chartroom and Eleanore (since May 2024). Described as an all-day cafe, bar and bottle shop, Ardfern sits directly next door to The Little Chartroom, and the syzygy between the two has been clearly highlighted, with the same colour scheme and typography spanning across both venues, and staff in chef’s aprons and front-of-house navys flowing seamlessly back and forth between the two.  What’s the vibe? Ardfern is cool. It’s laid-back, fuss-free and despite being a busy Saturday (every table was full basically the entire time we were there) there is a sense of calm about the place. The tables are spaced in a way that you can lean over and ask the table next to you what they’ve ordered (if you’re inclined, like me, and notice something looking particularly good), but you can also deep-dive into some spicy yet confidential work gossip without worrying that everyone around you will hear.  Like almost all places that describe themselves as a bar or bottle shop – essentially anything other than a restaurant – the menu is small plates. If this sounds derisive, I don’t mean it to be. The relaxed vibe of Ardfern lends itself perfectly to this style of menu. The dishes here work a treat for sharing, and the menu, which features burrata, chilli peanut ribs, and a baked fish crumpet, doesn’t have an obvious theme to it. But altogether, it works –