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Time Out Melbourne never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more here.
There’s a reason the modern wine bar is such a ubiquitous presence in the local dining zeitgeist: the model is easily replicable. Take a shopfront, add a communal table and stools, shuck some oysters, pour some vino. There is no shortage of such venues, and thus, becoming something more than the typical Melbourne wine bar requires a bold sense of self. North Melbourne has such a place in Boire.
Born from the rollicking success of his Errol Street diner Manzé (meaning ‘to eat’), chef/owner Nagesh Seethiah has expanded his footprint across the road with Boire (meaning, yes, you guessed correctly, ‘to drink’). Manzé’s DNA is present on the menu, where flourishes of Seethiah’s Indo-Mauritian heritage adorn each dish, and authenticity and purpose are the driving forces. Boire does everything you’d hope your neighbourhood wine bar would do, but delve a little deeper and you’ll find something altogether singular in a sea of similarity.
The vibe
Taking full advantage of North Melbourne’s wide and welcoming footpaths, Boire’s intimate interior is complemented by an expansive outdoor section, perfect for grazing and sipping in the afternoon sun. Inside, a tight curation of bottles line one wall, a compact and efficient open bar and kitchen along the other. The rest of t
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more here.
In fair Glen Iris, where we lay our scene, something of a hospitality revolution has been quietly taking place. Cult provedore Breadcetera is 3146’s preferred caffeine and carb dealer, Central Park Cellars brings inner city wine bar vibes to the leafy southeast, and pizza joint Grazia has become the community’s hub. So perhaps it’s not surprising that hospitality veterans Michael Badr and Marco Tenuta, co-owners of city stalwarts Marameo and Il Bacaro, chose Glen Iris as the locale for their new venue, Bar Sophia. It’s proving a canny decision.
The choice to bring a taste of Melbourne’s Hellenic renaissance to the area ensures Bar Sophia is on trend, while a central wood-fired oven and luxurious front bar tick every box on the ‘Cool New Joint’ checklist. But how does Sophia differentiate itself from its classmates? Just six months into life on Burke Road, it has the surety and steadiness of a venue that’s been around for years, where deceptively simplistic fare is delivered warmly, and tenured pros guide you through a long Athenian lunch.
The vibe
Owner Badr is in his element on the floor, and it shows; a deft touch with suggestions and upselling, and the unflappable assurance of someone who not only knows the menu back to front, but helped come up with it. F