Alder
In certain circlesâwhere pork bellyâs sustainability and the legitimacy of the Worldâs 50 Best Restaurants are subjects of debateâWylie Dufresne can be as disruptive a topic as harem pants, cilantro or Benghazi. Drop his name into polite conversation and watch the mood ripple.
The chefâs particular brand of gastronomic black arts has been dividing opinion for more than a decade at wd~50âthe original nucleus of North American avant-garde cuisine. There he cultivated his modernist, tongue-in-cheek approach, spawning curiosities like deep-fried mayonnaise and scrambled-egg ravioli. Critics call it gimmicky, fans find it magical, but either way youâve got to hand it to him: Whereas other chefs of his standing cashed in with soulless expansion plans, the man stayed focused on his Lower East Side spot, lapping every other New York kitchen in innovation and sheer pluck.
So it was something of a bombshell when Dufresne announced heâd be opening a second restaurant, one that seemed attuned to the way the food world has changedâdownscaled and relaxedâsince wd~50 debuted in 2003. At his new gastropub, Alder, Dufresne is still challenging the orthodoxy of serious cooking, presenting familiar flavors in surprising new frameworks. Whatever you think of the twisty byways heâs exploring with his kitchen lieutenant, John Bignelli, this food is awfully easy to like.
To enjoy a pigs-in-a-blanket riff, for example, you donât need to know that the wrappers encasing sweet Chinese sausage are Peppe