Stephanie Danler talks her much-buzzed-about debut novel, Sweetbitter
Stephanie Danler owns at least 200 cookbooks. She adds anchovies to almost everything she eats, savoring the intense umami flavor. She plows through the works of Alice Waters, pioneer of the slow-food movement, like she reads novels: intensely and thoroughly, from cover to cover. And recently, she received a letter from that world-renowned chef, congratulating her on her debut novel and recalling meeting her when she was a waiter at Buvette.The 32-year-oldâs foodie status comes as no surprise given the backdrop of Sweetbitter (Knopf, out May 24). Set in a restaurant based on Union Square Cafe, where Danler toiled as a back waiter at age 22, itâs a coming-of-age story of another 22-year-old, Tess, as she lands that very same job. Itâs rich in sensory descriptions, the kind of book that one doesnât just read but devours. âA certain connoisseurship of taste,â Danler writes in the beginning of the book, âa mark of how you deal with the world, is the ability to relish the bitter, to crave it even, the way you do the sweet.â (If you think thatâs a lovely way to describe the uncertainty and insanity of early-twenties-dom, Sweetbitter is for you.)Despite possessing similarities to her protagonist, Danler is quick to clarify that Sweetbitter isnât a simply a memoir packaged as a novel. âAnyone whoâs worked with me will probably say that itâs surprising that itâs so non-autobiographical,â she says. âThe characters are made up, and the plot is fully made up,â she continues. âHowever, th