Olivia Greenway

This delightful north Indian hill station, one of the country’s smallest cities, attracts holidaymakers from all over India and beyond. As well as a pleasant, cooler climate in summer – and occasional snow in winter – it’s clean and green. Situated at 7,100ft, access is by twisting roads or the popular narrow gauge ‘toy train’. The most well-known landmark is the main street, Mall Road: a pedestrian-only walkway, with a variety of shops and restaurants on one side and views across the valley to the other. Everyone comes here, night or day to ‘promenade’. The ruling British made Shimla their summer capital in 1864 and echoes of the colonial past show in its buildings, some of which are now hotels. Shimla offers a wide range, from opulent luxury to the more basic; in town or on the outskirts – offering more space and usually better views; modern or historic. Decide on your ‘must haves’ and choose from our favourites.

In a country so huge—just one of its 29 states, Karnataka, is bigger than England – it’s extremely hard to whittle down a list of India’s best hotels to just a dozen, and in the end it’s a judgment call. Although we have included hotels in major cities, there are standouts – both large and small, in rural locations – and we have tried to get a geographical spread too. The most highly-regarded Indian hotels are dominated by the large domestic luxury chains – Taj, Oberoi and Leela – where standards of housekeeping and food service are among the finest in the world. But beyond these are a growing number of independents which, while no longer bargain basement territory, nevertheless still offers value for money and probably an experience you will treasure forever. Be prepared to be blown away. Nameste.