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Greenwich Village is the crown jewel of New York Cityâan exciting and eccentric neighborhood covered in leafy trees and beautiful old buildings. Although it lies at the halfway point between the bustling density of the Financial District and the glass-covered skyscrapers of midtown, the Village has tenaciously maintained its independent spirit over the centuriesâperhaps a bit too tenaciously...
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Greenwich Village is one of New York Cityâs most haunted neighborhoods. Tales of murder, witchcraft and grave robbing are etched into its streets. The prosperous, the impoverished, and the free-spirited have all called it home⊠and many have decided to stick around long after their deaths.
These are the seven spookiest spots to visit in Greenwich Village this fall.
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Youâve probably seen The Old Town Bar even if you donât realize it. Images of its tiled floors, reddish pressed tin ceiling and wooden bar have long been visual staples of the American cultural diet. Its neon sign and welcoming interior were emblazoned across the opening sequence of The Late Show with David Letterman. Its other credits include the movies The Devilâs Own and State of Grace, as well as the music videos for House of Painâs âJump Aroundâ and Madonnaâs âBad Girl.âÂ
Old Townâs appeal runs deeper than its classic New York aesthetic, however. True to its name, The Old Town Bar has proudly stood on 18th Street between Broadway and Park Avenue for over 130 years. Itâs long been a spot where New Yorkers have come to gather, talk and connect.Â
This fall, I had the privilege of speaking with the co-owner of Old Town, Gerard Meagher, to learn more about the barâs history, its patron saints, and, of course, its secrets.Â
A Bar for Everyone
Old Town was originally established in 1892 as a German restaurant called Viemeisterâs. The first floor was a saloon for the men while the upstairs dining room operated as a more respectable restaurant for both gentlemen and ladies. To this day, the ladiesâ room is still on the second floor while the menâs room is on the ground floor.Â
For the first 80 or so years of its existence, the fortunes of Old Town were tied to the subway. The restaurant began prospering in 1904 when the now-forgotten 18th Street and Park Avenue subway stop opened
The Ear Inn is one of the last truly old New York bars. Nestled at the western edge of Spring Street, it is the rare drinking establishment that has evaded the touch of both time and tourism. For over 200 years, the inn has served as a welcomed haven for New Yorkers who want to sip their beer in the company of good people, good music, and the inescapable presence of the cityâs history. Â
The Ear Inn is currently co-owned by Martin Sheridan and Rip Hayman, who have stewarded this beloved establishment since the 1970s. On a sunny February afternoon, I had the pleasure of speaking with Sheridan about the innâs history, its characteristics, andâof courseâits secrets.Â
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Photograph: Donald Yip
A Riverfront RefugeÂ
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The ramshackle, two-and-a-half-story brick townhouse the Ear Inn calls home has been standing for roughly 250 years. It was constructed sometime in the 1770s by a wealthy tobacconist who is said to have crossed the Delaware alongside George Washington during the Revolutionary War.Â
The townhouse originally sat right on the water. The Hudson River ran a mere 5 feet to the left of the front stoop. Now, a block and a half of landfill separates the Ear Inn from its original neighbor. However, memories of the innâs ties to the riverfront are hard to forget. When Sheridan and Hayman excavated the cellar, they found mounds of grey riverbed silt and the remnants of a long-forgotten pier laying peacefully alongside 18
The McKittrick Hotel looms above West 27th Street between Tenth and Eleventh Avenues. To a passerby, there is nothing about the buildingâs façade that hints at the haunting world that lies withinâexcept, perhaps, for the line of shifting individuals that nervously snakes along the curb.Â
The McKittrick Hotel is home to the world-famous production of Sleep No More, a âsite-specific, immersive experienceâ that blurs the line between audience and actor, stage and seating. It began previews in March 2011 and has been continuously extended over the past decade. The show was created by the British theatre company Punchdrunk and produced by Emursive Productions in association with Rebecca Gold Productions.Â
But as the lights fade out on its 5,000th performance, in January 2024, Sleep No More will conclude its nearly 13-year run. The pioneering performance has hosted over two million guests and has a sister run still ongoing in Shanghai, China. Â
For those in love with the McKittrick Hotel, this is not a final âgoodbyeâ: the venueâs other performances will continue on at West 27th Street ⊠and we hear that Punchdrunk already has another large-scale production in the works.Â
Ahead of the closure, we had the pleasure of speaking with Ilana Gilovich-Wave, Emursiveâs Chief Storyteller, and Stephanie Geyer, the publicity envoy of the McKittrick Hotel, who shared some of the McKittrick Hotelâs lesser-known facts and closely guarded secrets so you can enjoy it all the more before itâs over
As I stepped out of Lafayette Avenue station and into Fort Greene, I could have sworn I had walked into a sitcom set in New York City. The neighborhood looks and feels like a highly curated setâin the best way.Â
As a Manhattanite, the first thing I noticed was the beauty of the neighborhoodâs elegant brownstones. Then there were the sidewalks, which were crowded with toddlers and dogs. People were stopping to talk to one another outside stores. Gaggles of septuagenarians chatted and laughed on the corners. Children played unsupervised in the park.Â
Fort Greene is one of the few remaining slices of a bygone New York. One where the neighborhood is your entire universeânot just a place you come to lay your head. One where you actually know your neighbors. Where you really, truly live and not just exist. Itâs even been named NYCâs coolest neighborhood for 2023 and 15th coolest in the world!
But donât let this idyllic setting fool you. Fort Greene has its secrets and its scars. Itâs witnessed war and loss, gentrification and resistance, and even a candied catastrophe. Here are the essential secrets you should know about Fort Greene.Â
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1. Fort Greene is named after an actual Revolutionary War-era fortÂ
The tranquility of Fort Greeneâs leafy, brownstone-lined streets belies its dark origin story. It was here that the Continental Army suffered its worst defeat of the American Revolution.Â
In late August of 1776, the British attacked Brookl
Down in the heart of the East Village, tucked around the corner from the imposing Cooper Union, lies McSorleyâs Old Ale House, arguably the greatest Irish pub in New York City.Â
Since its establishment in 1854, McSorleyâs sawdusted floors and tchotchke-covered walls have beckoned countless New Yorkers and visitors alike. Itâs been home to presidents and poets, scallywags and scribesâand just about everyone in between. Â
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The bar is known for many things: its unchanging appearance (the last time its decorations were changed was in 1910 when the founder âOld Johnâ McSorley died); its limited drinks selection (patrons are challenged with a choice of light or dark beer); its literary fame (New Yorker essayist Joseph Mitchell called it a âWonderful Saloonâ while e.e. cummings described it as âsnug and evilâ); and a certain magic that its communal tables seemingly conjure every night when they manage to turn strangers into close friendsâif only for a fleeting moment or two.Â
But thatâs what is commonly known about McSorleyâs. After nearly two centuries of operation, the bar has compiled its own canon of secrets. Now, just in time for St. Patrickâs Day, Iâm going to share of few of my favorites with you.
1. An original John Wilkes Booth âwantedâ posterÂ
Photograph: Walker Schulte Schneider
High on the wall above the bar, angled a few degrees towards the ground, hangs an original wanted poster for John Wilkes Booth, the actor and